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Actually I rebuild a VW LT right now. It has a Master with about 23mm Diameter.

There's countless versions though. So I might be mistaken.

Actually Jim's Pictures are the right ones. It is a TD Master.

Richard

The one on ebay is definitively not a brake master cylinder.
I believe that it is a clutch master.

Richard

I would love to see pictures of your Pinzgauer. You might not believe it but watching your truck in Croatia back then was the reason I started to save money for a Pinzgauer. I was 16 at that time. Your Pinzgauer was my main inspiration when I built my racing Pinzgauer. Therefore it appears similar t...

Congratulations! You live in a very nice region of Poland. But believe me, there is more Pinzgauers in Poland then you would believe. I know of at least 5 more owners. Next year in Summer I will be in Poland competing in two races with my Pinzgauer. If I find a Pinzgauer on my way I will stop and as...

Ok its definitively a TD master cylinder. Sorry about my doubt about it. The problem is that I don't know of any Mercedes that uses a 28mm master cylinder. The only thing I can do is tell you the Part number of the repair kit. The Manufacturer is FTE and the Number is RK28506. But please double chec...

Are you sure that the brake master is from a TD? I had a different Diameter in mind so I took the old Brake master apart that came out of my 716M P80. The old piston has about 29mm Diameter. I will measure them properly tomorrow. Have you got a Picture of the Brake master. It might be easier to Iden...

You can get the repair kits directly from S-Tec.
They are the ones who took over all spare parts and
service from Steyr.


If you want to have a contact there just send me a PM.

Richard

Nice Video!

Richard



Btw. you don't need spring compressors to mount the
rear springs.

The thermostat that directs oil flow to the oil cooler starts to open at 180 F and is completely open at 200 F. That is the temperature range the engine is designed to run. Since the engine oil cooling system relies on overfunction and is controlled by a thermostat, anything over 200 F means that th...

I have seen a few pinzgauers with this problem over here. One of them was mine. The left Half axle started to crack just like yours and the right one deformed the hole in the axle tube that comes out of the differential housing. The reason why this happened with my pinzgauer was because both front w...

I own 2 Austrian Army Pinzgauers one 710M that was Factory refurbished and one 712M. I guess Diesels don't count here. :wink: 1975 710M: Got it with 18000km. Now it has 35000km and there are no issues up to now. Absolutely no Rust. It was sold off from the Army because they closed some military faci...

The Austrian Army Pinzgauers that were factory refurbished have
some sort of interval control. You can buy it directly from S-tec.

My 710m has it and it works great.
You can see it in this Picture just right beside the dash.



Richard

@AZ712DK: Well up to now didn't run out of money or out of time. I didn't even give up on my Pinzgauer. I will never do so. I understand your concerns, but my main reason to build something like this is fun. I love to build something that suits my needs. If it works I'm happy. If it doesn't, well ha...

What always worked for me was to apply some wd40, to heat the connection up slightly then apply some more wd40. Afterwards let it cool down and do it all over again three or four times. The temperature of the connector should reach 100 deg C but not more. If there really is some Loctite on you will ...

One important thing is to retorque them after the first few miles. And then recheck them regularly. There were many accidents due to loosened Wheel nuts in the Austrian army. This was the main reason why SDP changed the torque specs for the wheel nuts over the time. The proper torque now is 200 NM. ...