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I had the idea over the winter while pondering my SSI installation and I was just now reminded when I read Ed's post. In short, the idea is to run the stock alternator with a 12v regulator that charges the lower battery. The additional alternator could use an identical 12v regulator but be used to c...

Thanks for the tips everyone. I think battery balancer is the way I might go. It does worry me a little to make my pinz too gadgety, but on the other hand I sure do love to make my pinz gadgety! Regarding the batteries, I respectfully disagree. 700mA is pretty low but the current draw is not the dri...

What kind of problems have people seen when using a 24-12v converter as opposed to the mid-battery pickup? The manual states only that there were problems but it would be nice to know what they are for troubleshooting purposes. I've noticed many more carb backfires when cold since I added the voltag...

Haf-e wrote: What brand/model of regulator are you using?

I have the Mark Grasser 24v regulator.

There are many things that can kill a battery. Heat is one thing, and the nearby exhaust can help kill a battery. My regulator monitors battery temp and has shut down a few times due to battery temps being too high on long trips in the summer. Check the battery voltages while running above idle, tho...

So I guess I should answer your question Morris, I'm working on the cab doors. There is another possible way to make the locks cheaper: all the parts are available separately at SAV, and they are really cheap except for the actual lock cylinder. I can 3d print an adapter if someone finds a cheaper c...

The rear door latch is the exact same assembly as the front except that it is mounted in there backwards, if memory serves me.

The lock for the rear door is set up for a deadbolt, though, which is a mechanism I haven't put any thought into yet.

Ah yes, another project fallen through the cracks in old Putz. I haven't forgotten about it, though. Here is where I left off. One of the parts came out like a melted blob because it was too finely detailed for the laser. I tried a 3D printer instead and it came out decent enough, but turns out it i...

I just finished installation this morning and I gotta say it smells and sounds exactly the same as it did before. Actually there is one notable difference: no more occasional "miss" at speed. I think that was the pertronix causing the skip. I could see it very clearly with a timing light. ...

I replaced my clutch slave on Putz (as my brother affectionately named it after a 2 hour ride in the back in the rain) a few months ago and saw the same strange pedal issue for a few days, then it just went away. Hasn't reappeared, so I wrote it in the maintenance log and moved on.

I just ran across this looking for sound blocking ideas and noticed that Dyna- brand does not describe dynaliner as having any kind of sound dampening properties. It is used on top of dynamat to provide thermal insulation (though it probably does provide some sound insulation). On second look on a d...

I lost spark this weekend and after a few hours of fiddling I thought "why not just drop in the SSI!" Really looking forward to it and I hope you still have one on the shelf.

How does this change the carb tuning process?


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Here is mine, just for reference. Notice the zerk on the "t" pointing downwards. Covered in grease, but it's there.

Jimm391730 wrote:Block the wheels, put the transmission in neutral, put the transfer case in neutral, and you can just rotate the shaft by hand as you look for zerks.

I didn't know the t-case had a neutral! That will save me some time next time I service. Thanks!

My zerks are really hard to find as they are hidden inside the "U". They might even be on the "t", part 15, now that I think about it.

It's easier to just keep rolling the vehicle back until I can see them than trying to crawl around down there.