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My Arborist just swing my and uses a Ball-Pintle combo hitch. Kinda cool, don't know if there would be any interference with the bottom of the door, but I found several options on etrailer. Don't know about shipping outside the US either but knowing something exists then the hunt begins :wink: https...

You want to minimize parallex by viewing the pointer to mark right through the center of the pulley.
The most convenient place to do that is on the passenger side and gives ready access to the distributor
to rotate.

Are you running any aftermarket Solid-state-ignition or stock setup?

With the Pinz suspension, Toe-in effects Camber.
So indirectly you can adjust the Camber via a Toe-in adjustment.

Yes, that drawing is showing the B+ diode and it's mounting/cooling plate #1. The assembly from SAV would save you the effort of pressing out the old and figuring out which ones are bad -- but, the leads of the B+ (and B-) Diodes are soldered to the Exciter circuit board, which also connects to stat...

Well this result points to a shorted Diode. Note that D+ is about one diode drop below B+ (Battery) -- that makes sense. There are 3 "Exciter" diodes, fancy name for the Alternator output that drives the rotor field winding via the regulator. These diodes are not your problem. There are tw...

Do you mean 4.1 Volts ?

How to test that relay -- there's a simple test. Ordinarily, with the engine running, D+ is outputting 24V, which is connected to the Regulator AND the bypass relay -- thus the relay closes in parallel with the bypass switch. When the IGN switch is then turned off, the relay should remain closed as ...

When you turn off the Battery switch does the Switch bypass relay stay ON (#53 in the schematic) or does the dimly lit Alternator light turn off? You could also try getting a voltmeter on the D+ terminal (Blue wire) as well as pin #61 on the regulator. If one of (3) forward high current bridge diode...

Sorry to hear this Rick, you and your diligent staff at PinzSSI have been absolutely AWESOME. Your support and responsiveness sets a pretty damn high bar, I sure appreciated your help in the past. Would you be willing to post the Powerarc PN#'s and Eaton converter in case someone is in need of a rep...

Looks like some pre-ignition? Re-check your PinsSSI timing. It should be 3mm to 5mm advanced. It's possible the timing disk moved in relation to TDC. The distributor "pinch-clamp" may be loose or the screw locking the timing disk may not be tight enough. Either could result in timing drift...

Hmmm, I'd give this a few years to develop a reputation. The company, INEOS Automotive is a subsidiary of INEOS which is more of a petrochem but dabbles in other industries. I don't see a lot of car DNA on the management team other than one or two; Thibaut Doneux, who is more of the "Clay cutte...

After you check the valve gap, if the readings didn't change then the question will be is 100 psi good enough for now on #4. That will all depend upon where the leak is. If it's the rings, and you have good enough power then you might be fine for another season. If it's an Exhaust valve, well that's...

Relative to the other pistons, #4 is low. Just to make sure we understand how you did the test..... You want the pressure reading on the 1'st compression cycle, that will typically read 110 to 120 psi. Then you want the reading after 4 to 5 compression cycles -- the reading should pump up. A reading...

The crankcase is normally under vacuum so you would not be collecting any oil in your bottle. Under vacuum, if you are pulling oil up into the air intake, that could be getting there due to oil mist in the crankcase condensing in the intake, likely due to very worn or broken rings. This goes back to...

DOT 3 is good. DOT 4 has a higher temperature rating, not needed for these buggies. Don't use DOT 5 !! Your not going to find a kit or replacement Master from NAPA :( Best bet is SAV or EI. I'd recommend getting a brand new one. Though they are easy to rebuild. The surprise you might encounter is co...