THE PORTAL HUB - Pinzgauers, Haflingers, Volvo 303s and more!

The photo makes it look as if you are "A" framing the Haflinger around. Not sure if Haflinger's take to that very well... They don't self centre very well so it might not be the best method of getting from a to b......

Much better to drive it!

John

Looks nice by the way.

Charge them for damage done to the vehicle by them when they recovered it! They obviously did not know how to do that correctly or they wouldn't have spent such a huge sum of money - did they have to recover their own vehicles as well?

John

Use it, like it is supposed to be used! Just because it is a early one - not pristine museum finish, so what's going to change on it? A few more dents? It was built as workhorse not pretty "look but don't touch" vehicle.

Just my opinion.

John

When are you going to start putting it together? All very well taking things apart - but don't you want to drive it?

John

I know an ordinary combination spanner will work, it's just that most do not have slim enough side walls to go all the way to the bottom of the castle nut due to the shape of the arm of the drive shaft. Your picture actually gives a good view of the problem area. Grinding a suitable angle on the spa...

The rubber bellows would have kept most of it in, although there would always have been a weep when the Haflinger was stationary. i blame the same gremlin who removed half the split pins on Lurch before I purchased him. I think the gremlin might also be involved in removing odd socks from the washin...

In which case - Sorry Haflinger ones don't fit and I'm the other side of the pond.

John

Can we ask for which vehicle or am I going to have to guess?

John

Hopefully the "how-to" is of use to you, but also to others who haven't attempted to take their hubs apart as it appears very complicated when you first try. John p.s. Maybe be you can get longer metric threaded bolts by visiting a car spares shop that deals with European cars and getting ...

Dan, Having taken mine apart I can give you the following help:- Not necessarily the correct way to take the bits apart but it worked for me using relatively few special tools. The hub bearing. Either put the studs which hold the rim on in a vice to hold the flange still, or put a long breaker bar /...

First off, make sure the "H" shaped force direction changing systems pivot points all work - they are prone to seizing up.

You can buy the alloy casting which is broken, but I would think it would be cheaper to find someone to weld it up and then re-machine the inside surface.

John

Air compressor filling a tank connected by a pipe to the inlet manifold via a pressure release valve. Always have air in the tank as long as the air compressor works.

Constant pressure available to pipe to the inlet manifold.

John

Hi, In your second to last photo, you have the splined shaft to your left. Then you have the "mud protector" aluminium part, then the rubber CV boot. You can actually pull that "mud protector" off down the splined section - there is a "O" inside which stops the oil from...

The oil seals obviously, along with the "O" ring and the collar the oil seal rides on. To get the collar off, apply heat! New bearings if you can afford them. New hub gears if you have low speed gears in there.... Actually, general driving speeds are not that much different between the slo...

Backfires are usually down to air leaks, both on the inlet side and on the exhaust side. They can also be caused by bad ignition timing so that's the first thing to check as that can lead to holes melted in pistons if bad enough!

John