THE PORTAL HUB - Pinzgauers, Haflingers, Volvo 303s and more!

The top of the shock is held in place in the same way as the bottom - long piece of studding with a nut on either end, which should be able to be pulled out of the tube in the "T" section which supports the platform. Quite possibly, the stud has seized in the centre and won't want to move....

The article also alludes to that dreadful "big business" belief that they are always so right and that if a decision goes against them, they can sue a government because it will hurt their profit line! Surely, if you supply 22 prototypes for testing and the Government chooses one suppliers...

Just need to make sure it's not proud along the bottom edge as it will get damaged when sliding over rocks etc. Gary, jack the rear end up - all the oil will drain down to the front end where the filler plug is. use a vacuum oil sucking system to suck all the old oil out, then replace with new. Like...

I take it you mean an oil leak from the oil return tubes from the cylinder heads? The seal where the tube meet the crank case is just a press fit and clamped in place when you fit the cylinder head again. It can be done with the engine in place as sliding the head outward till it hits the engine com...

I like the special branch sweepers! Congratulations to all.....

How about some more ribbon down the sides? Maybe a bow on the winch?

John

Hope you remembered to put the handbrake on!

John

Bureaucracy at it's best!

Nice computer programs to make it quick and easy to administer things, but no method of dealing with the unexpected!

John

If you don't ask the stupid questions, you will make mistakes that cost you money! So be smart - ask the questions! Rubber boots at the Diff end of the drive shaft - on all Haflingers. Rubber boots on universal joints were fitted to early Haflingers, but due to parts replacements which happen to veh...

Just been looking at your pictures again. I wonder if it might be leaking from the drive shaft oil seal, but I don't think so. Usually that produces an oil trail at the bottom of the wheel hub / swivel pin / lower king pin area. It order to replace the gaiter on the outboard universal joint (Manual ...

The top picture showing the front wheel - the steering stop (the horn shaped thing) need to be turned round to point in the "2" o'clock position so it makes contact with the arm / stop on the wheel hub when you are on full lock. The split gaiters work perfectly well if you put them on prop...

Apologises for the above! Just had it pointed out to me that I had not filled in my location...... Doh! Have rectified that mistake now. Still the sentiment remains the same, filling in your location allows others to point you in the right direction regarding spares etc. There are several English sp...

Well, if you filled out your profile, people would be able to point you in the direction of suppliers who can provide the spares you require. The most likely place is a split in the rubber boot, but they do also leak from the two "O" rings that are on the pivot point pins. The rubber boots...

Use an Epoxy resin to remake the lip to help keep the rubbish out when you go off road. Not actually required for the wheel or brake to work, but definitely helps keep the brake shoes clean!

John

Are both rear axles the same? Or are they handed? Wouldn't have thought so, but with these beasts anything is possible! Shame you have a couple of broken bits, but they don't look like it would really repair very well. So probably not worth even contemplating that - Replacement with preferably a new...

Aftermarket!

The original tank would have bossing pressed in to the side panels. Yours are plain so can't be original.

Is the brazing on the bottom holding the drain plug in place nice and smooth? If not then definitely not factory.

John