Sputtering and stuff

[norcal pinz]

after i start up my Pinz when its cold it Idles real good BUT the gas pedal is sensitive whenever i change pedal input it sputters allot at low rpm if i give it gas slow it sputters at the top of the pedal once i have my foot down its fine ?? and then after it warms up it Idles kind of high ??? where should i start? it sputters when its warm too but a little less could this be timing or carbs???or both

[Winter Beater]

did you sync the carbs and adjust idle mixture when warm? I found the same problem prior to having the engine warm, the gasoline just doesn't atomize well until all the pieces are warm. This I think is normal with a carb engine. You begin to appreciate the EFI age; turn key ...go regardless of temperature or altitude.

If the problem persists when warm and it's difficult to sync carbs and hold idle I'd suggest a carb overhaul. By this I mean tear it down to the screws, check threads and look for loose bolts, true mating surfaces, replace worn seals and jets, blow passages clean with air, add new gaskets, O-rings set float level, sync and go.

Others may have better ideas, my suggestion is based on a similar experience.

[Jim LaGuardia]

Sounds like accelerator pumps are worn/bypassing.
Also inspect carbs closely for looseness or loose throttle shafts.

[Jimm391730]

Put more money on Jim L's carb suggestions, but I had off idle problems that were 40% carbs and 60% ignition - the Civi kit from EI made a huge difference. If you want to keep it stock I've got a set of wires that have only one year of use on them before I changed out for the Civilian conversion; the wires were bought new (~$500!) plus the cap and coil. Make an offer if you want them.

[norcal pinz]

Hey JIM its been a while,,,,, so is there a way to tell if the accelerator pumps are bad? Like if i move the throttle and the thing squirts v/s no squirting ?

[roadrash]

Following this thread... I've had some issues that at least sound similar to the original post...

Problem comes with attempting to leave from idle... Complete and total bog... Have to hit the peddle (smartly once or maybe twice quickly) to burp it off of idle, once that is done, and its over 1K rpms, response is perfect and as expected. Right now though there is now way to come off idle without a burp to the throttle.

Its just now becoming tollerable to work outside after a LONG and cold winter so there will be some much needed TLC given to the the "ark".... So glad there are knowlegable folks out there!

[norcal pinz]

Following this thread... I've had some issues that at least sound similar to the original post...

Problem comes with attempting to leave from idle... Complete and total bog... Have to hit the peddle (smartly once or maybe twice quickly) to burp it off of idle, once that is done, and its over 1K rpms, response is perfect and as expected. Right now though there is now way to come off idle without a burp to the throttle.

Its just now becoming tollerable to work outside after a LONG and cold winter so there will be some much needed TLC given to the the "ark".... So glad there are knowlegable folks out there!

yeah thats what mines doing i think you explained it better could this be the accelerator pump ???????

[roadrash]

Im not really sure myself... I'm hoping the carbs just need some adjustment. I have a very old-style gauge for sync'ing them, so I'll be attempting that first.

[norcal pinz]

do you know if a carb rebuild kit has parts for the accelerator pump in it ?

[edzz]

The kits i bought from Scott at Expedition Imports did. call Scottt to confirm, remember there are two different kits (big or little mixture screw).

[Jim LaGuardia]

Pumps are not in kits. They are around $13 ea or Under $4 ea for the rubber only.