EFI again

[jfhhch]

Hey Guys

Just to give you an update on the efi system I am running. I drove the 712 heavily modified pinzgauer fully loaded pulling a loaded trailer, with 3 guys from Burlington Ontario Canada - Clearwater beach florida, nonstop.
1300 plus miles of pinzgauer drone... We did this so we were sure the truck was setup properly and if anything was going to fail, it surely would in the first 1300 miles. The truck is headed to Haiti to be a mobile clinic in the mountains. We averaged about 9 miles per gallon, but that is with the truck at 4000 rpm or more the entire trip and the rubber we have installed is about an inch shorter then stock. The system ran great had to make a minor adjustment to the hall sensor in North Carolina, and adjust the belt for the air-conditioning. Otherwise the trip went well, took us 37 hours, with little to no stops on the way, except fuel. We used aircraft headsets so we could talk to each-other with out going deaf, and played tunes over the system as well. Had a couple of first time experiences like micro-waved Gatorade. ( just to keep warm) we do have 28000btu of air-conditioning, but that doesn't help when its 28f outside. The pinzgauer heater box did keep the cab at a balmy cab temp of 44f , we also used those open up and shake heat packs in our boots and pockets.(thanks for the recommendation Jim) Other then that the ride was very comfortable. Top speed down hill 66mph, slowest thru the mountians was 25mph, and on the flat we held a comfortable 55mph. Not to bad for undersized tires and a rolling weight at about 10000lbs. All in all very happy with the set up we are using, Every part of Jims kit bolts right up and the sds ecu seems to love it. We did make some last minute changes to our A/c compressor set up and the location of the coils. I also will not be using the engine temp sensor location we did this time, although it give a great base line for programming if your outdoor temperature never exceeds a 40 degree sweep. The problem is my hot reading on the sensor never got above 140 when it was 32 degrees outside, yet when we hit florida it did get to 180s with no temp change on the cylinder head temps. ( it was mounted on the fuel pump block off cover) Other then that we only used 1.5 quarts of oil, and it is so nice to just hit the starter no matter what temp, or altitude you are at and the blasted thing starts faster then my 2007 tundra. Sorry for writing a book, but just wanted to give some feed back. Any questions feel free to ask. Jeff

Will try post some photos later.

[Heed]

Thanks for the update Jeff!

I'll try one of the electrical supplier shops out here in the east end.



Jim: PM sent in regards to your kit.

[Erik712m]

Hey Guys

I also will not be using the engine temp sensor location we did this time, although it give a great base line for programming if your outdoor temperature never exceeds a 40 degree sweep. The problem is my hot reading on the sensor never got above 140 when it was 32 degrees outside, yet when we hit florida it did get to 180s with no temp change on the cylinder head temps. ( it was mounted on the fuel pump block off cover) Other then that we only used 1.5 quarts of oil, and it is so nice to just hit the starter no matter what temp, or altitude you are at and the blasted thing starts faster then my 2007 tundra. Sorry for writing a book, but just wanted to give some feed back. Any questions feel free to ask. Jeff

Will try post some photos later.

Jeff, I'm seeing the same problem with the temp location. What about putting a different sensor on the heads?


I washed a cylinder out after I flooded it.

[jfhhch]

Erik

I am going to try and get the sensor, or a different one with the same resistance values into the oil stream. I feel this will give me a much more consistant temp reading regardless of outdoor temp.

Jeff

[Thomas-E]

2 cents worth on my experiences with this engine and temperature.

This engine is somewhat overcooled. I found that the oil temp would remain below 140 F. at about any Outside air temp. until you really worked the engine.

Highway driving at 3500-4000 RPM would bring the oil temp up quickly.

My Cyl. Temp runs about 325 F at any OAT and/or power setting.

I had problems early on during the winter when temps dropped below 40 F. , Oil temp would never get above 120 F. Cyl. temp would indicate 300-325 F.

I was concerned about foamy oil. I tried wrapping the entire lower crankcase and oil pan with aluminum/foam insulation, only picked up 15-20 degrees. Found that my thermostat was stuck open and replaced it. Now the truck behaves much better, within about 20-30 minutes it will reach a stabilized oil temp. of 180-185 F.
You will still need to work it a bit to generate heat or a longer warmup!

Again through all of this, cylinder head temp doesn't vary much from the 325 F. area.

About 1-2 min warmup on a cold day to get to stable cyl. temp and 20-30 minutes for stable oil temp.

On a hot day, 105 F., oil can reach 205 F. and cyl. temp may reach 340 F. (again working the engine hard).

[Erik712m]

Thomas, I'll give the t-stat a try.

[Jim LaGuardia]

Erik, take your existing temp sensor and relocate it to the oil inlet passage of the thermostat housing(see installation instructions for my kit), you will get much better results than the case location you are using.
These engines run 160-226 deg f with proper thermostat operation.

[jfhhch]

Thanks for the input Thomas. I have had the same experiences with the cylinder head temps, I have driven these trucks in Africa pulling a heavy load uphill with a 50c or 122f outside temp, and the cylinder head temp was really no different then if the outside temp was 50 degrees colder. I am going to install my engine temp sensor were Jim has recommended. Jim do you think I could use the standard aircooled cylinder head temp sensor in that location? How much wall depth do I have in that location? Thanks guys. Jeff

[Jim LaGuardia]

Casting thickness is around 1/4+"thick. You should be able to use any type of temp sensor here as long as it is
no larger in diameter than 1/4"NPT
You must remove the thermostat housing to drill and tap, replace the mating gasket before reinstalling

[Erik712m]

Thanks Jim I am going to move it over the weekend.