Sitting 4+ years, checklist for resurrection...

[Get2work]

New to the forum, and my ‘79 710M. It’s been sitting in the PO’s driveway for a while. I trailered it home. Hasn’t started in over 4 years, which probably means 6.

Before I begin the preliminary routine of draining fuel tank, checking air and spark, new batteries, etc., are there any tips or tricks, or things to look out for, do’s or dont’s, that I need to be aware of with these trucks?

I thought about changing oil before attempting a start. Thoughts?

Thanks
Donny in Ohio






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[rmel]

Look for signs this might have become a 4 Star Mouse hotel, assume so, thus
your looking for nests in the oddest of places -- hold this thought.

Remove the Air filter and top air duct. Inspect the air filter and all air passages.
keep the top duct OFF as you will need to prime the carbs before you attempt to
start as they will be 100% empty of fuel. Turn your ignition switch on and make
sure the Carb fuel-flow solenoids have 24V on them and they are functional. If
you disconnect them one at a time and "touch" 24V you should hear them "click".

Remove the top front engine tin and look inside for nests on top of the cylinders,
get your shop vac out and clean any debris that may prevent proper airflow.
Unfortunately Mice seem to like cylinder #4 which is the furthest back. Put the
tin back in place.

Sitting for 4 or more years all internal surfaces are going to be void of Oil, and
the Filter at this point is apt to be pretty depleted. So your first attempt to start
the engine will take some time to build up pressure and get proper lub. So you
may as well start with a clean slate and replace the Oil and filter. Use the search
feature for Oil recommendations. However, don't use Synthetic or the more common
branded Oils, you need an Oil that has proper anti-wear agents for these solid lifter
engines e.g. Diesel engine Oil, Racing Oil, etc. Also make sure you Prime the Oil
filter and get it soaked and filled with as much oil as you can get in there.

With your tank empty inspect for pealing of the liner. If the liner is in bad shape
the debris will get sucked up the intake tube and plug up your in-line filter.
Commonly called "Red death". If you have this problem you can get the tank
re-lined. Several radiator shops also service fuel tanks.

Give it a go and good luck.

[whitesik]

Welcome to the forum! It is good to see another owner east of the Mississippi. There is lots of good information on here and mostly friendly Pinz owners to offer help. Search is your friend.

[Texas710]

In addition to everything already mentioned.

I would be looking real hard at the fuel lines and filter providing the gas to the carbs. Not a lot of tubing, or overly complex, but cracks or loose fittings can make starting a real PITA, since the pump has to lift the fuel from the tank to the carbs, any leaks or cracked line wont help and are potentially dangerous.

Yes, at a minimum, new oil in the engine. You're going to be replacing all hubs, transfer cases, differentials, and hydraulic fluid anyways, so might want to knock them all out at once. You should be able to get oil, oil filters, fuel filters, and hydraulic fluid at any common auto parts place. Get some copper crush washers for the differentials and hubs while you're there. Do some searching on here, lots of recommendations on oil and after market parts numbers. Lots to do...

Congrats on the new truck, looks nice.

[Get2work]

Thanks everyone. Advice well received. Hoping to get started on it soon.


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[Texas710]

And please don't take this the wrong way, more of an FYI. Consensus is that the front hitch is not a great place to tie down a pinz while on a trailer. Too much downward pressure on that and it will warp the front end, pop the front doors.

There are some good tie down points on the axles, you do have to take care to secure the body to the trailer as well, otherwise these things become pogo sticks going down the road. Best of luck!

[Get2work]

10-4. Thanks for the tip.


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[rmel]

BTW please add your location in your profile.

[Get2work]

Updated my signature. Tapatalk is weird about settings, since it’s used across multiple forums.

I put 2 batteries in. Power to everything so far. Tried to crank it for the hell of it. Starter doesn’t want to turn motor over very well. It made one full revolution at one point. Just bumps it a bit now. Weak starter? Good voltage to everything...

Not sure if this link will work, but here’s a short clip.


https://share.icloud.com/photos/05X5ixp ... PXIgt_nGFg



Donny
1979 Pinz 710M
Located in Southwest Ohio

[rmel]

Check the ground and power connections to the Starter, it
take a boatload of current so a loose connection could have
a large voltage drop and thus weak at cranking. If all looks
good then --

To eliminate the possibility that you have a wedged piston.
Put in neutral, get a 27mm (or 1 1/16') socket on the Crank
pulley and turn clockwise with a ratchet. You should be able
to crank it over by hand without busting your hump.

Assuming that you could crank by hand, and the connections
to the starter were solid (and back at the (Ground break switch)
good chance your starter needs and overhaul. Most Alternator
shops can rebuild this Bosch starter and source parts. Though
I'd be leaning in the direction you got a weak connection.

[Get2work]

I did have a hell of a time getting a turn on the crank by hand. I’m going to pull the plugs tomorrow and soak the pistons with some penetrating oil. Repeatedly. Try to soak the cylinder walls.

I did measure 18v at the starter not under load. Thoughts on that?


Donny
1979 Pinz 710M
Located in Southwest Ohio

[rmel]

With the plugs pulled get a borescope down in there and take a peak at top of the pistons.
Inspect the cylinder walls as well. If you don’t have a borescope they are cheap and on amazon a worthwhile investment. With the plugs out you should also be able to crank by hand with ease.

And...18V is a problem. You should see just over 24v with no load. Your batteries must not be fully charged or marginal.

[rmel]

One thing you will find is that a Pinz does not like to sit idle for an
extended period of time. They need to be worked to run well.

So don't get worried or frustrated, your in the Onion peeling period,
one damn problem to solve after another -- but you will get there.

Once you get this rig in order, running it regularly, you will find
they are reliable and tough. You just have to plow through these
issues due to years of neglect.

Some here know what I'm talk'n about

[djw]

Another tip as the carb bowls will certainly be dry:

http://real4x4forums.com/PinzgauerBBS/v ... 999#p89062

[Get2work]

One thing you will find is that a Pinz does not like to sit idle for an
extended period of time. They need to be worked to run well.

So don't get worried or frustrated, your in the Onion peeling period,
one damn problem to solve after another -- but you will get there.

Once you get this rig in order, running it regularly, you will find
they are reliable and tough. You just have to plow through these
issues due to years of neglect.

Some here know what I'm talk'n about

Thanks for the encouragement. I’m new to the Pinz, but not new to chasing down “old vehicle” problems lol.

I have a scope on the way, lube in the holes, and will work on the juice issue.

I did drain the old gas out that was a nasty mess, but no red death that I could see.

@djw thanks for the link!


Donny
1979 Pinz 710M
Located in Southwest Ohio