Baffling Carb problem and need help !

[Ken A]

Fellow Pinzgauer owners,

I have a carburetor problem that has me baffled and our Search and Rescue support truck down at this time.

A few years ago I had the carbs rebuilt and all was fine except for the fact that we discovered that the throttle shafts were going to need to be replaced and every so often I could smell fuel but could not see any leakage.

Later over this last summer the engine had a hard restart problems when warm and much stronger smell of fuel.

This winter I replaced the throttle shafts with no problem but just prior to taking things apart I noticed that there was some dripping from the Outlet Arm/ Pre-atomizer.

Now that the throttle shafts don’t leak we went to adjust the carbs and the dripping was present in 3 of the 4 throats (2 in the front carb and 1 in the rear).

I checked the float levels and the rear carb was correct but the front carb was a bit high. I replaced the spacer on the float needle valve and the level is now just below the prescribed level.

Front & rear carbs still drip.

I replaced the spacer on the float needle valve in the first carb with a much thicker one and the level was much lower than the prescribed level and the dripping in the carb turned into fast drip (x3 faster) I put the other spacer back in and the level was then back to just below the prescribed level.

When the engine is shut down the drips continue for about 20 seconds as though the float chamber was depressurizing.



Fuel pump is an electric Facet # 40164 4-6 psi max.

All cut-out valves ”click” when actuated.


Has any one had this problem and found a fix?

I really need to get this back on the road and support our search teams.

Thank you all for taking the time to think about this.

Ken Anderson
612-827-7141

[Jim LaGuardia]

Your fuel pressure is too high . The Pinz runs 1.5-2.5psi on average.
The fuel pressure is overcoming the needle seats. One last thing to check, are the float valves securely seated to the top cover, is the sealing washer doing it's job?

[karoja]

Jim, is there any other brand of 24v electric fuel pump that would put put the correct psi for our trucks?

[kpoling]

We used to use these fuel pressure regulators on our VW dune buggy engines:

http://www.pacificcustoms.com/mm5/merch ... ange_high=

It is $22.

Or this one for $38:

http://www.pacificcustoms.com/mm5/merch ... ange_high=

They are installed on the "down stream" side of the pump. Hope it helps. Kevin

[Jim LaGuardia]

Electric pumps are more trouble than their worth
Just rebuild the stock pump and eliminate the problem altogether.

[karoja]

Hi Jim, any idea who has rebuild kits for the pump? Thanks in advance

[pcolette]

Here's the part number on the kit #7121085600. Both EI and SAV carry them though SAV's site shows they are currently out.

Paul

[Ken A]

I got back from a search Monday and saw everyone’s responses.

Jim again thank you for your wealth of knowledge on Pinzgauers. I looked for the fuel system PSI specs and could not find it.

I installed a pressure regulator that kpoling suggested and the dripping has stopped.

I now have one last drivability problem to resolve and I should be back on the road.

Thank you all.

Ken A.

[ExpeditionImports]

This has been discussed numerous times. What exactly do those that install electric fuel pumps think that they are accomplishing?

Normally, the response comes back that they are trying to overcome a problem that would be rather simple to fix in the first place!

As Jim mentioned and I completely agree with, fix the basic problem, don't try and mask it by the addition of an electric pump. You will create yourself problems.

Availability.....kits are available. Complete aftermarket pumps are available cheap. (Varying reports on these, although I can say I have recently had personal experience with the Carquest 1072 as tested by David Gossett) and did not have ANY negative experiences at any RPM/Speed. The pump is low quality, Chinese/Indian crap, but seams to work and at $36 is cheap.

Personally what I have told a number of people.....when you have a failure, drop in the aftermarket pump and then order up a rebuild kit for your original unit. Rebuild it and keep it available so that if you do experience problems you can take care of it.

I will ask again.....what problem is the addition of the electric pump fixing? I cannot count the number of trucks that I have started up after sitting for months on end. (Think swiss military bases here.) Simply engage the choke and crank the engine over. 10-30 seconds of cranking and boom, up she fires. This is a GOOD thing....a little oil pressure on an engine before it fires is not a problem in my book.

Just my .02 cents.

Cheers,

Scott

[krick3tt]

I have ordered the pump Scott mentioned to carry as a spare for my trip to the Treffen.
Spare pump is less expensive than a rebuild kit and good insurance. Much easier to install a pump than field repair an existing one.

[pinzinator]

3 years ago I installed a fuel pump on the Pinzgauer that had the same part number as a pump for a Volkswagen van, I think the year was 1971. I rebuilt the old one and carry it as a spare like Scott recommended. In the 10,000 kilometers since I have not had a problem. I think I gave $15 for the pump on EBay.

[Ken A]

I understand the reasons to stay with the OEM fuel pump, but at the time my lower pump housing badly leaked oil from the hole under the pump membrane and the pump lever axle.

The pump was rebuilt and had a new “axle” installed and was repacked with heavy grease and it still leaked oil badly. I posted the issue on the Yahoo site and this one and was told the lower housing was not available and the new complete unit cost was outrageous. At the time there was no mention of any aftermarket pumps. It was suggested by a number of people (including 2 dealers) to go to an electric pump as an alternative. So I selected a pump we have used on other equipment for years with never a single failure and one used by some experimental aircraft builders.

So that is the story. I did not convert to the electric pump because I wanted too, but did so out of cost at the time. (Still hard to fork out over $400 for a pump)

I consider my self to be somewhat resourceful in when it comes to the Pinzgauer and yet do a quality job, but I seemed to have fallen short on this one.

Ken A.

[Jim LaGuardia]

Your leak was most likely the result of the wrong gasket on the top of the mounting block. The proper gasket has holes only for the pump rod and mounting studs, it also blocks off oil thrown upwards by the camshaft , thus keeping the rod lubed and diverting the oil back down the drain holes in the spacer.

You can get the gaskets at any auto parts store(same as VW air cooled Beetle)