Engine leaks - worth fixing or NEW MOTOR

Engine troubles? Try here.
Jerbearyukon
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Joined: Fri Dec 21, 2007 4:04 pm
Location: Whitehorse Yukon Canada

Engine leaks - worth fixing or NEW MOTOR

Post by Jerbearyukon »

I have some major leaks happening now to the 710k of mine....I am just wondering how hard and how expensive it is to pull the motor and fix the gaskets or just buy a new one for 2grand or so.

I am not a mechanic but have a buddy that is and I could pay him for his time but is it worth it.

How hard is it to pull the motor or do you have to take the body off...sorry maybe stupid questions for you learnerd folks but i am but a mere electrician and not all that handy in mechanics.

I have just replaced the distributor and rebuilt the carbs and it might be time to do the clutch cause it's just grabbing at the top of the clutch pedal...I HAVE NEW brake pads and rear seal coming too.

So I pretty much going to have a rebuilt truck.

Please advise if you can

Thanks jer bear
spandit
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Location: East Sussex

Post by spandit »

The maintenance manual gives details on how to lift the engine out, I think. You don't have to take the body off although if you have means to do so (the top half) it might make things a bit easier.

What is leaking? Oil or air/exhaust?
--

Robin

Pinzgauer 710K
MegaJolt ignition
(upgrading to MicroSquirt)
Jerbearyukon
Posts: 446
Joined: Fri Dec 21, 2007 4:04 pm
Location: Whitehorse Yukon Canada

Post by Jerbearyukon »

oil...I am going to check but it looks like I have a leak on the front near the stearing box....also out of the speedo...both sides too.

It came on all of a sudden and is leaking right onto the manifold too so It's REAL SMOKEY when you stop at a light or jjust stop period :(.

Jer
Jim LaGuardia
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Post by Jim LaGuardia »

So, once again I have to point out the detailed procedure is in the MANUAL :shock:
Engine comes out through passenger door opening, no top removal required. :o
If the main case seam is not leaking, the entire assembly can be resealed or rebuilt in place. :D
Read your manual, in the end, you will find it more cost effective to repair the leaks than to replace the engine as a rebuilt replacement can run $4000-$5500 on average. :roll:
Cheers, Jim LaGuardia
http://smg.photobucket.com/albums/v510/Goatwerks/
"Arch Magus of Machines."
Pinzgauer Pete
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Location: Middletown, New York

Post by Pinzgauer Pete »

Engine can be pulled without removing body..you will waste precious time doing so. As far as rebuilding your engine it would seem to me to be the better choice. The parts are all available and if you are talking about breaking the engine down to repair leaks that wont cost much but if you are contemplating piston and rings, bearings then you are spending some money BUT...remember...the engine you buy for 2k may have just as many miles on it as yours..so down the road you are where you are NOW. As for me I would only replace an engine that has severe internal damage. If your engine runs and has good compression is not knocking from the lower end I would suggest a rebiuld, when you are done you will have a good and reliable engine.
life is like a box of chocolates...you never know which one you might get

710M
Jerbearyukon
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Joined: Fri Dec 21, 2007 4:04 pm
Location: Whitehorse Yukon Canada

Post by Jerbearyukon »

Thanks everyone.....the compression is ALL GOOD so maybe that would be the best option

Thanks again
Jerbearyukon
Posts: 446
Joined: Fri Dec 21, 2007 4:04 pm
Location: Whitehorse Yukon Canada

Post by Jerbearyukon »

So the parts guy at the college said he has this stuff you can put in the oil to check for leaks with an ultrvoilet light.

I will do that asap and then I will do a small video too.

would you guy help me from there?

I love this site and appreciate all of your imput.

thanks

Jer BEar
Jerbearyukon
Posts: 446
Joined: Fri Dec 21, 2007 4:04 pm
Location: Whitehorse Yukon Canada

Post by Jerbearyukon »

So here's the scoop. I have a major leaks (she dripping just watching her. from behind the metal flange and this nut by the spark plugs...I wipped it off and restarted the truck. She starts behind the metal flange first and then the nut starts to weep.

Image

you have to turn the pic

this is the video

Image

this is how much oil leaked in 2 minutes - and it comes right onto the manifold

Image

Image

it's also leaking in the steering box and out of the speedo casing but not as bad.

there is oil on the other side of the motor too but i am not sure if it just blowing around in there.

:(

Jer Bear
Jim LaGuardia
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Post by Jim LaGuardia »

Looks like a valve cover gasket got sucked in.
As for trace dye, the oil must be clean or it will mask the dye.
Cheers, Jim LaGuardia
http://smg.photobucket.com/albums/v510/Goatwerks/
"Arch Magus of Machines."
Jerbearyukon
Posts: 446
Joined: Fri Dec 21, 2007 4:04 pm
Location: Whitehorse Yukon Canada

Post by Jerbearyukon »

The vlave cover gaskets are all new and I talked to Karl from Pinzgauer Canada and he said it was the rod tube sliders? gaskets or O rings.

BOY I LOVE ELECTRICAL...when I hear the jargen in the automotive industry it just boggles me...but I guessm we have our moments too. :)

ANYWAY:

He Says you have to take the head off to fix it. So parts are on the way so I will be carrying extra oil and a gas mask I guess for a bit...hahahahahaha.

Just smokey when you stop.

I ordered a new clutch/plate too.. she will be good as OLD soon.

Thanks again

Jer Bear
Pinzgauer Pete
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Location: Middletown, New York

Post by Pinzgauer Pete »

Jer..Jim was trying to tell you not to rule out the valve cover gaskets although you say they are new..that is not what Jim was alluding to...sometimes the gaskets actually get sucked in and then there is major leakage problems. Make sure you take the time to verify where the leak is coming from before throwing a bunch of parts at it.
life is like a box of chocolates...you never know which one you might get

710M
Erik712m
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Location: Wichita, Kansas

Post by Erik712m »

Watching the video I'd go with Jim.
Jerbearyukon
Posts: 446
Joined: Fri Dec 21, 2007 4:04 pm
Location: Whitehorse Yukon Canada

thanks

Post by Jerbearyukon »

I have new gaskets and I will put them on today. It sure looks like it's coming from the left of the valve cover though.

I guess today will tell. I am just getting the seals or gaskets for the slider (or whatever they are called) so they won't be expensive...just tearing her apart will be if we need too.

I will do the gaskets today and let you all know.

So much to learn and I am so greatful to have all this experience at my fingertips....you guys are AWESOME.

Sure wish there was a way for me to repay you, but I am next to useless with mechanics...but I bowhunt...flyfish....play tennis..ping pong...ride horses..ride motorcycle...have an awesome health side business that is doing amazing things for ppls health and you can make some money with (2800.00 a month residual for me right now...not bad in this supposid BAD ECOMNOMY) and I can do electrical/plumbing/renos ...so maybe there is something I can help somebody with in the future.

:)

Jer BEar
Jerbearyukon
Posts: 446
Joined: Fri Dec 21, 2007 4:04 pm
Location: Whitehorse Yukon Canada

I will post a new video this morning of the leak..

Post by Jerbearyukon »

I will get the camera in there after I clean it up good...then you can comment ok.

I have two new valve covers anyway, but I will have to wait for the other parts if that doesn't fix it.

Thanks again eveyone

Jer Bear
Jerbearyukon
Posts: 446
Joined: Fri Dec 21, 2007 4:04 pm
Location: Whitehorse Yukon Canada

so

Post by Jerbearyukon »

When I videoed this time and enlarged it on my computer it looks like it's oil seeping from the left valve cover gasket and then the air from the engine it pushing it back to the right.

Is that what you see?...hard to get in there close but I am going to grab a mirror an see here in a bit.

the video..you will have to wait until I rev the motor..it's about half way ok.

Image



Jer
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