Air Intake bolt missing?

[berger]

While working on the truck, I noticed that I am missing a bolt on the air intake. How critical is this? Is it just there to fasten the intack down on the carbs?



Thanks!

[undysworld]

It's a cam bolt, and it's used to hold the air box tight to the carbs. Without it, I'd assume stuff might get drawn in. It's Pinz-specific. I doubt you can find anything local to replace it.

[berger]

It's a cam bolt, and it's used to hold the air box tight to the carbs. Without it, I'd assume stuff might get drawn in. It's Pinz-specific. I doubt you can find anything local to replace it.

Thanks! I will see if I can find it in the parts manual I have.

[pcolette]

Here it is: http://www.pinzgauer.com/showdetails.ph ... 121190271U

Very pricey! Also very unique.

[spandit]

Mine just came with a normal bolt. The eye bolt can be screwed down more if you need it tighter

[berger]

Thanks guys.

It just looks like a large bolt, short shank, with a flat head screw driver head to it. I wonder if that is what makes it expensive?? :?:

cambolt.JPG (18.46 KiB) Viewed 4789 times

[undysworld]

It's a cam bolt

I've never seen another like it. I expect that's why it's expensive. Like many things on a Pinz, it can be cobbled together with the wrong parts. But you gotta ask yourself, "Why did they design it that way to begin with??". Rarely have I found that there wasn't a perfectly good explanation for the original engineering, and plenty of reason why a hillbilly fix doesn't work as well, or at all.

Feel free to modify, and let others know how it went. Occasionally someone comes up with an improvement.

[crcpinz]

I have permanently removed mine, since I find it useless, unless your intake cover fits loosely on the carbs. If it does, any regular bolt will do, although it won't have the cam's adjustment feature, which is to pull the cover down tightly.

[berger]

It's a cam bolt

I've never seen another like it. I expect that's why it's expensive. Like many things on a Pinz, it can be cobbled together with the wrong parts. But you gotta ask yourself, "Why did they design it that way to begin with??". Rarely have I found that there wasn't a perfectly good explanation for the original engineering, and plenty of reason why a hillbilly fix doesn't work as well, or at all.

Feel free to modify, and let others know how it went. Occasionally someone comes up with an improvement.

Yes, I realize that, but now that I have seen the bolt and what it does, I know exactly why it is designed that way...for easy operator use and a minimal tool set in the field. They are quite ingenious, hence the expense. It isn't about improving something, but making do with what works without any negative impact. In the Ural world, we call this WWID, or What Would Ivan Do.
It is no different than the cam style bolts used on the dashboard, or metal plates that hold the doghouse and floor boards down. Instead of a needing a socket set and wrench and fumbling with nuts, bolts and washers, you just use a flat head screw driver, open the cam bolt, remove the intake, re-install the intake, turn the cam bolt so that it tightens the intake down in one turn. For the amount of times I plan on taking the intake off, a bolt and nut will work.

[berger]

I have permanently removed mine, since I find it useless, unless your intake cover fits loosely on the carbs. If it does, any regular bolt will do, although it won't have the cam's adjustment feature, which is to pull the cover down tightly.

Thanks!

Ya, mine is tight too, which is why I wasn't sure if that is what it was for.

[4x4Pinz]

slight misunderstanding in the term "cam bolt". In the air cleaner case it is a bolt with a shoulder that is offset from center. It does have a nut on the back side so you still need either two wrenches or a screwdriver and a wrench to tighten/loosen. While this is intended to keep the seal between the carbs and the air distribution box, care needs to be taken not to overtighten the cam. I have seen regular bolts installed but they don't draw the distribution box down onto the carbs creating a tight seal. After loosing my first one I have taken to putting a small amount of loctite on the threads to keep it in place. This is just one of those parts that you should not have to replace often and tends to cost a little. If you can find a used one great otherwise just pick one up with the next parts order.

[Jimm391730]

In a pinch, screw the eye bolt down as far as possible and put a nylon tie wrap through it and around the air box.

[Stekay]

Seems an inexpensive replacement could be made using a standard bolt with an offset bushing

[spandit]

Here's the mod I've just made on mine:



It's an M6 stainless turnbuckle. The distance between the intake screws on the bridging piece is 70mm. Mine was snapped and although I welded it back up, the turnbuckle fork wouldn't fit round it so I just hewed one out of aluminium

[djw]

Here is that 712.1.19.027.1 "tension screw" up close. I had my stuff apart syncing carbs anyway (thanks Dennis for the technique).

Does not look terribly hard to fab-up and it does not look to be under much stress. Once you set it, you tighten the nut on the other side to keep it from rotating.

$30 plus shipping does make it quite special though.