710k running like crap

[Recon113]

I have been able to find some related topics but here is my issue....thanks for taking the time to read and respond.
Please keep in mind I am very new to the world o Pinzgauer. I have a 1975 710k and I got it this summer. I ran ok and the only issue until recent was once it got warm when I would go to turn it off it would spit and sputter and keep running and occasionally back fire while shutting down. Now as a cold start it runs great. Once it warms up however we have a different story. It looses power while accelerating, it spits and sputters and runs like crap...if it dies or I turn it off it is almost impossible to get it to start again...the engine will shutter and on e I get it started it still runs horrible....the carbs look like they have never been touched and are "leaky"...it has the ignition upgrade and I just dolid an oil change and changed the fuel filter and a new air filter. I don't use the manual choke ever just limited in mechanical knowledge and looking to learn from some zen masters

[berger]

I am going to take a stab at this, but I too am new and still learning.

From my experience, it sounds like an ignition issue, but some things off the top of my head:

Timing. I had issues with the distributor jumping and causing some of the symptoms you describe. Make sure the dizzy is tight and cannot move.
Voltage at Coil. A lot of times when issues like this occur when hot, they are at the coil.
Fuel Solenoids. Make sure they are fully seated, two per carb. I had one come off once after running great (could adress some sputtering)

Hopefully the more knowledgeable guys will chime in, but those are some things you might want to check.

[spandit]

If you are not using the manual choke then it sounds like it's running rich and fouling the plugs.

You could try checking the float levels in the carbs or (gently!) adjusting the idle mixture screws. Are the choke levers in the correct (i.e. forward/closed) position?

[pcolette]

If you're not using the manual choke to start it then there is definitely something amiss with the carbs. Here in Wisconsin at this time of year you should have to use the choke to start it. As Spandit said it sounds like the carbs are adjusted too rich.

As Berger mentioned I would also check that the electrical connections to the fuel cut-off solenoids are tight and also that the solenoids themselves are tight.

I'd also try removing the air intake and checking that all the fasteners holding the carb together and fastened to the intake manifold are tight.

Hope this helps.

[Recon113]

Thanks guys....anyone with time to post some pics of these electrical connectors it would be appreciated...PCollete...if the carbs do need adjusting I would be a bit afraid to tear those apart would a local shop be able to handle that or should I send them to EI for a rebuild?

[spandit]

Thanks guys....anyone with time to post some pics of these electrical connectors it would be appreciated...PCollete...if the carbs do need adjusting I would be a bit afraid to tear those apart would a local shop be able to handle that or should I send them to EI for a rebuild?

Look at the bottom of your carbs - there are some wires that attach onto the fuel cut-off solenoids - only a simple blade connection.

[Recon113]

Will do...thanks Spandit

[pcolette]

Here's a photo with the 4 connectors indicated:

IMG_1627.jpg (71.57 KiB) Viewed 6150 times

If you need the carbs rebuilt, the person to do them is Jim LaGuardia at Goatwerks in San Diego. Here's his website: http://www.goatwerks.com/home.htm
He's done 3 or 4 pair for me and they come back working perfectly.

[Jimm391730]

With the ingnition on, but the engine not running, you should hear a difinitive but quiet (sometimes not so quiet) click as you disconnect and reconnect each fuel cut-off solenoid. It is possible that these are not working (no 24V to them?) and someone "tweaked" the carbs to idle, anyway (running rich, or float level way too high). This could explain why it kept running when switched off.

Check for the clicks, then invest $20 in a fuel level sight gauge to determine if the float level is correct, or not. Then you will have knowledge to proceed with.

[Recon113]

That's a sexy lookin motor pcolette. Thanks all I will be checking into the suggestions posted hopefully tomorrow

[spandit]

You can build a float level for very little money - I posted instructions on here some time ago but can't find the thread at the moment

[Recon113]

Well if u can find it or pm me with the instructions when u have a moment that would be much appreciated

[TechMOGogy]

You can build a float level for very little money - I posted instructions on here some time ago but can't find the thread at the moment

This one?
viewtopic.php?f=9&t=6054&hilit=float

[spandit]

You can build a float level for very little money - I posted instructions on here some time ago but can't find the thread at the moment

This one?
viewtopic.php?f=9&t=6054&hilit=float

Bingo!

[Recon113]

The solenoids all make a click....when I start and then stop the engine there is still gas dripping into the rear carb.....the choke lever seems fine and everything's appears tight on the carb