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The oil pan gaskit continually seaps, is there a metal gaskit or some other method of preventing this. I believe the recommended torgue on these oil pan nuts are 12 ft lbs with the cork gaskit. thank you Mark

I have been using EI's rubber gasket for the oil pan (valve covers were disappointing) with great results. A very thin layer of copper silicone rtv on the pan and torque per manufacturer spec. This is a great alternative to the cork gasket.

tried to find a link to them but could not find them on their site. Hopefully they still make them.

Tried rubber gaskit before, but didn't last one week. Mark

I've found that if the rectangular washers are missing (part # 01-01-56) that the pan lip can become distorted and not seal tightly. The washers are cupped slightly so that they are springy and spread the tightening pressure over a larger area.

Do not over torque. If I read things correctly the manual calls for 11 Nm (97 inch pound or 8 foot pound) over torque will cause leakage.

ziegler wrote:Tried rubber gaskit before, but didn't last one week. Mark

If you don't "glue" them into place with the RTV they will squeeze out of the way. Anyone who owns a pinz should also own stock in Loctite. Use it often and on almost every bolt you put in. There are many different types, so use the right type for the application. I find this to be the biggest reason people have trouble with their trucks. Bolts come loose and parts are either lost or damaged by the loosen/lost bolts.

I used the cork gasket with Permatex 3 Aviation sealant have it hasn't leaked a drop.

The rubber ones can leak even with rtv and letting it sit before installation. My oil pan is hand cut out of a sheet after tracing the rubber one. It was just to keep me going for a weekend, but then has worked perfectly so I lost interest in replacing it with original.

I had the same problem. When I bought my truck it was leaking oil from the pan. I finally got around to changing it. What was installed was the plastic version that has been sold as an alternative. I replaced it with the original cork version that I got from Scott and it solved the problem. Obviously you need to use the gasket sealant when installing it and be careful installing the bolts and take your time tightening it up to proper spec. But, I would try the inexpensive cork gasket and see how it goes. While I had mine off I cleaned and repainted the outside flat black.

Good luck and let us know how it comes out.

John

Hi Guys,

We discontinued the rubber gaskets for both the oil pan and the valve covers quite some time back, due to the concerns raised above. They were not nearly as forgiving as the original cork ones and needed to be glued to the valve cover/pan prior to install. We have been delivering the cork versions direct from Steyr.

They do not have rigidity of the originals and had a tendency to squeeze out.

Cheers,

Scott

I just got done basically re-furbishing my oil pan. I started by cleaning the block on the RHS from the oil cooler down to the pan. Nasty messy job that took me 3+hrs! Lot's of years of oil built up. Once done I had a real nice clean surface at the block for mating the pan. I stripped the pan, hand sanded it and then used Rust Bullet Metal Blast on it followed by Rust Bullet Blackshell. Would have put on some RB Automotive first but I am fresh out. BTW, I have been using Rust Bullet a few years now and like it a lot more than POR15. It is easier to work with and super tuff. It does have a tendency to gas off real bad so thick coats causes bubbles. I have had puddles of overspray on wood after using this stuff. After it cured I smacked the puddles with a 3lb sledge and it wouldn't chip! After that I was sold on Rust Bullet. Any ways, after the block and pan re-furbish I hand sanded off the excess RB paint on the pan at mating surface. After that I put in the new cork gasket but I also applied orange RVT to both sides of the gasket. The thread locked all the oil pan nuts, installed washers in the right direction and torqued every bolt in a star pattern to 8-10ft.lbs. I finished it off after work tonight and it was dark by the time I was done. Will take a picture tomorrow. Keeping my fingers crossed I have put an end to my weeping oil pan!

Cheers

Hope you got your leak fixed, but silicon is a poor solution.

Auto repair 101Never put sealant on both sides of a gasket(especially silicon sealant) as it may split the gasket upon tightening(known as a hydraulic gasket failure).
Aviation sealant is only used on the pan(or component) side for a reason as it is the flexible surface and allows for pan/component servicing/removal without destroying the gasket and does not take up space.

Tips for fixing future leaks:
If you want any gasket to seal, the mating surfaces must be true and clean, use brake cleaner to prep surfaces(no residue), do not over tighten fasteners.
Generally if the factory did not use sealant on a surface then none should be needed.
When required, sealant goes to component side, if field repairs are needed the gasket comes off with the component and can be re used.
One last leak diagnostic step for persistent leaks, check for excess crank case pressure from worn piston rings, blow by can cause all kinds of leaks to pop up.
Now go have some fun after you finish scrubbing the driveway with Tide

I have replaced both oil pan gaskets on my trucks. I used the cork version without any sealant at all. Works great!

Thanks Jim, never had problems with RVT before or my method on many trucks. I do understand your explanation though. If I get any weeping after this I will blame it on the RVT and go with only the cork gasket to see if the RVT is the issue. The old gasket was cork only but was also cooked pretty good, discolored, stiff, hard, ect.

Cheers