What else will cause "the drips" besides a bad needle valve?

[audiocontr]

Im struggling with my carb issues (see my other thread) and I cannot get the rear carb to stop dripping. I have tried 4 different valves and up to 3 shims and I still cannot get the rear carb to stop dripping at idle. I've swapped the floaters and the valves to the front and they work just fine, just not in the rear.

They do not drip once the engine is shut down.

Any suggestions?

[undysworld]

Any suggestions?

Scott suggested you allow 1-2 wks for a rebuild through EI, if I read him right: http://www.real4x4forums.com/PinzgauerB ... =12&t=8087

Paul C. suggested you send them to Jim L. for a rebuild: http://www.real4x4forums.com/PinzgauerB ... =12&t=8147

Edzz gave you links to Jim L.'s website for info: http://www.real4x4forums.com/PinzgauerB ... =12&t=8148

Jim L.'s giving you part numbers: http://www.real4x4forums.com/PinzgauerB ... =12&t=8149

Several folks chimed in to help orient your butterflies, which (if I'm not mistaken) the repair manual cautioned you about: http://www.real4x4forums.com/PinzgauerB ... =12&t=8175

Several folks also offered advice about syncing your carbs, and Jim L. suggested you post pics of the throttle parts 5 days ago (which you've not yet done): http://www.real4x4forums.com/PinzgauerB ... =12&t=8180

Here you've got rich symptoms, and Robin suggested possible damage to the float: http://www.real4x4forums.com/PinzgauerB ... =12&t=8173

At this point, if none of the above suggestions help, I'd suggest that you've got some basket case carbs and you'd be way further ahead simply shipping them off to Jim L. or Scott for rebuilds. They'll know what parts are not useable and/or missing, fix what's bad, adjust them for you and ship them back. Otherwise, you could be a long time sorting out what might be multiple issues.

Yup, it'll cost a little money. But what's your time worth?

Just sayin'...

[audiocontr]

Alright alright alright, point taken. I had hoped that I would learn something new and pick up a nice shiny bit of pride through personal accomplishment. Guess its time to hang my hat and send it off to the pros when I've hit my max amount of questions allowed.

[Stekay]

Guess its time to hang my hat and send it off to the pros when I've hit my max amount of questions allowed.

I think that's for you to decide. There's no question limit here. If you feel like hang'in in there (like me) keep asking and I'm sure you'll get suggestions. My Pinz is my hobby and its a labor of love to try and learn with each and every issue that arises. We're all still here if you wanna keep at it...

[berger]

Undy can be harsh, but fair!

[undysworld]

Yeah, sorry, no disrespect meant there. It was the end of a particularly difficult day here. No offense intended, and hopefully none taken.

I saw Audiocontr's latest thread (this one), and something struck a memory. When I looked to see how many threads hehad started on carbs, it just seemed unusual.

in the case of carbs, sending them off for refurbishing is often way easier than trying to suddenly pick up the ability to do it yourself. Add to that the number of very pleased customers you read about who've done that, and it seems like a pretty sure thing. Plus you've maybe got a lot of potentially separate issues going on.

As Stekay wrote, I too don't see there being a limit on the number of questions you ask. We love to see guys fixing their own stuff.. But at some point, and especially on some items, you're probably better to get help from a pro.

Regards,
Paul

[audiocontr]

I sent a note off to Jim about getting them through his process.

My guess is that the issue is with the idle jets, not the needle valve. I swapped those and found very different results with the dripping.

I still need to properly align the butterflies (I can see light through the edges of two when i shine a flashlight) but will wait to hear back from Jim.

(I too read through all my posts on carbs. I've had 3 trucks, so 6 different carbs - This is the latest ive dealt with and the most i have gone in)

[TechMOGogy]

FWIW - Jim takes pictures of all his work and I have found him to be extremely good at explaining what he has done and how he did it. I am sure you could still 'learn' from Jim regarding your carbs.
I have have only dealt with Scott for parts vs work but I have read on the Mog forum how he has spent countless hours on the phone helping people and walking them through various repairs/settings etc.
I can't offer much insight as I am lucky if I can adjust them properly
Cheers and good luck,

[stiffler4444]

Good on you for trying yourself, but it often takes a bigger man to ask for help.....and an even bigger one to let someone else do it. I love to tackle most everything myself, but when it comes to carbs, I let the experts do their thing! No shame in that.

[McCall Pinz]

Keep asking questions and trying to fix it- this is supposed to be fun. In the future though rebuild one at a time so you have the other as a model.

[krick3tt]

As many have said there is no limit to questions. Sometimes I don't know the question to ask as the frustration level is so high by the time the question forms in my mind that I just
put it away and stare at it sitting in the garage with my head in my hands.
I recently rebuilt my carbs and did them one at a time. Worked for me and I took pics at every time I removed a screw or turned it over to look at another view. Fading memory will
spark that move.

Not on subject... but now that my carbs are functioning correctly...the dizzy is my concern. I removed the cap to blow out water that had gotten in and I fear that I may have put it back on
with just a bit of twist (just the cap). There is no tab to align it and it can move a bit when tightening up the screws. Running a bit rough now. Perhaps retiming is in order?
Morris

[Jimm391730]

The dizzy cap doe not have anything (much) to do with the timing -- it is just there to work with the rotor to route the spark to the right cylinder. In fact the spark has to jump between the end of the rotor and the terminals in the cap; between the width of the rotor end, and the width of the cap terminals, the timing can be many degrees off before the rotor and cap terminal do not have any alignment and even then the spark can often still jump the (now larger) gap.

Timing is set by the angle of the shaft vs. the angle of the dizzy base; since the shaft is (mostly, more on this in a moment) fixed in comparison to the camshaft by the gear drive, you adjust timing by adjusting the rotation of the dizzy base. If you rotate the dizzy base in the direction that the rotor rotates you retard the spark (the shaft has to turn further to get to the same spot on the base) or you can advance the spark by rotating the base opposite the shaft direction (so the shaft position gets to the same spot in the base sooner). But the shaft is NOT directly connected to the camshaft -- the centrifugal advance mechanism rotates the top of the shaft "ahead" to advance the timing as the shaft speed increases. This is also called the mechanical advance.

So it's all not terribly complicated but it can get confusing when the dizzy shaft (the part with the bevel gear that connects to the camshaft) is removed; the gear has many more than four teeth, so it can be put back in place so that the rotor does NOT point nicely to the cap terminal. Now the spark must jump a huge gap (if it can) or might even go to the wrong cylinder. In my younger days it was just a matter of pulling up the gear, replacing it one tooth different, and seeing if the rotor would point to the cap terminal as the points were to open (not quite as easy to know with a Pertronix, you could just use a meter to "beep" out the opening of the points) and repeat until the rotor pointed well to a cap terminal.

This is not to say that you don't need to set the timing, just that rotating just the cap does not change it (assuming you only rotated the cap 1/8 to 1/4" or so). But you can always try moving the cap in the other direction and see if things improve.

[krick3tt]

Thanks for the tip.

edit: There are two holes in the top of the cap 'holder'. Apparently I used the wrong ones when reinstalling the cap and had the rotor about 3/8 inch off from the no 1 cylinder.
Does make a difference.

[Jim LaGuardia]

No offense guys, but he would most likely not have found the issues(multiple).
If you are not familiar with the Zenith carbs, several common mistakes are often made in assembly.
The dripping was starter and pump check valves in wrong locations(both carbs), a very popular mistake .
High sync numbers were bent shafts and bases as well as warped throttle plates and internal vac leaks(top of carbs and choke housings warped ) .
Good news is they were repairable and are now done

After repairing bases and completely rebuilding carbs, they sync'd out at 7Kgh@950rpm on test engine.
My suggestion is always verify components with parts book if unsure, and always make sure all mating surfaces are flat.

[edzz]

also if your not Jim do one carb at a time so you will have the other carb to compare to for reassembly, assuming they were assembled correctly the last time.

Jim you are a wizard.