Are there 2 types of drive-shafts? Or maybe after market?

[Texas710]

The reason I ask, and I feel a little dumb, is that I cannot find all the grease fittings. There is one on the shaft, but the other two, I am at a loss.

I noticed the marking "USA 371" on the u-joint closest to the hi/low transfer case. Something tells me not original Swiss stock? Also, when looking online, I found a diagram with that looks like two types of shaft, one with three zerks #19, and one with only one #7

I am willing to concede that the zerk fittings could have been sheared off, but I don't see a hole. Where exactly would you look? On the U-joint itself, or on the flange or slip yoke? I hope I am getting the technical terms right.

Is it possible to have a u-joint that is not greased, this does not sit well with me.

Any thoughts would be great.

Thanks

[Jimm391730]

Many U joints that I have replaced (on US car driveshafts, back in the day when they were all rear wheel drive) were considered "greaseless" without a zerk fitting; some original U joints had zerks and replacements did not, or sometimes they did not and the replacements did. If they had one, the zerk was always on the cross, usually between two of the arms and often pointing somewhat forward or back to make it easier to get a fitting on it. If you don't find one, nor a hole where one was, then you have a lifetime sealed U joint.

I have no idea what may have changed over time with the factory driveshaft, but I've never noticed that greaseless U joints had a shorter life than greaseable units. I'd suggest you grease what you can; if they fail, replace them. Any of us with greaseable units just do the same - grease what we can, and replace what fails.

[eToothpaste]

My zerks are really hard to find as they are hidden inside the "U". They might even be on the "t", part 15, now that I think about it.

It's easier to just keep rolling the vehicle back until I can see them than trying to crawl around down there.

[Jimm391730]

Block the wheels, put the transmission in neutral, put the transfer case in neutral, and you can just rotate the shaft by hand as you look for zerks.

[Texas710]

Spins freely, and this truck is nice because you can pretty much sit under it.

I am going to attack it with de-greaser and a toothbrush and see what I find.

[eToothpaste]

Block the wheels, put the transmission in neutral, put the transfer case in neutral, and you can just rotate the shaft by hand as you look for zerks.

I didn't know the t-case had a neutral! That will save me some time next time I service. Thanks!

[bikmakr]

I'm guessing here, that the drive shaft has been removed/replaced at some point. Those don't look like the stock nuts on the flange bolts.

[Texas710]

As this truck is new to me, I am going to assume not the drive train it left the factory with.

Hi/low neutral is great, until you sit in the driveway wondering why the truck isn't moving... D'oh

I cleaned the shaft as best as I could, I have felt every surface on the thing with my hands, scraped off the road grim and still cannot find any evidence of the other two zirks.

If someone could post a picture, that would be helpful.

I will keep my eye on it and no joke, probably check a few more times out of OCD. What is the life expectancy of a "propeller shaft" as it's called in the parts catalog?

[Jimm391730]

What is the life expectancy of a "propeller shaft" as it's called in the parts catalog?

Pretty much the life of the truck. I've never heard or experienced a single case where U joints were ever replaced more than once, on any vehicle. If they ever need replacing they are inexpensive but can be a real pain if you don't have a press and the knack or experience to change them.

You will notice a definite vibration (can be severe) when they fail as the bearings at the end of the cross no longer hold the shaft centered; it starts to spin off center, creating the vibration. However even in this condition they will hold on for a long time -- meaning that you don't have to worry about being caught out on the trail with bad U joints; you can easily "limp" home (at reduced speed, due to the vibration at higher speeds) for quite a long way.

Personally, from the photos you posted I would put the driveshaft wwwaaayyy to the back of my mind; you may never have a problem with it. Grease what you can and don't worry about it.

[undysworld]

I agree with Jim about not worrying. As was mentioned before: Yours are just permanently lubricated. If and when they fail, then replace them. Don't worry too much about a lack of zerks.

The only prop shaft on a Pinz I ever saw that was "bad" was probably still okay. The Pinz driveline doesn't move much, and the alignment between the transmission and transfer case is pretty straight. The u-joints don't have to flex much with each rotation. So they tend to stay free only in the degrees within which they do move. But beyond that normal small amount of movement, the "bad" one felt sort of tight. On any other vehicle, I'd have replaced the u-joints. That particular prop shaft is still working just fine, many years later.

If you cannot feel slop in the u-joints themselves, I'd leave well enough alone and sleep well at night.

[rmel]

Blew my shorty shaft out three years ago driving up from Pismo Beach. Pretty smooth
going down from the Bay Area but on the way back that rattel'n vibration feeling
that makes you wonder if this was going to be a day spent in the tow truck. I did make
it home, but the journals on the shaft were toast. Needed a new shaft from SAV,
balanced, this replacement does have zerks. I grease these puppies at least
twice/season using high quality grease e.g. Lucas.

[eToothpaste]

Here is mine, just for reference. Notice the zerk on the "t" pointing downwards. Covered in grease, but it's there.

[Texas710]

This clears it up for me, will watch it and grease what I can.

Thank you very much guys, eThoothpaste, thanks for the picture, that helps. Mine does not look like that.

Hopes this helps someone else.

[GRCameron]

If one were not reluctant to deviate from stock, a shaft from Tom Woods Custom Driveshafts might be just the ticket - for approx. half the price of a used shaft from SAV. A double cardan (CV) shaft (or double-double) would do wonders with the stock shaft geometry.

http://www.4xshaft.com/

Yes, they specialize in Jxxp and other makes, but they do customs. Worth the look...

[Texas710]

Thanks again everyone. Just an update.

I spoke with the PO (needed help with the title transfer) and he confirmed they are after market drive-shafts. Sealed units.