Splitting Axle

Diffs, axles, lockers, transmissions, portals, that kind of thing.
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SAM. C.
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Location: Brisbane, Australia

Splitting Axle

Post by SAM. C. » Mon Nov 13, 2017 5:35 pm

Hi All

Is it possible to split an axle without the tool in the EI video?

I need to split mine but have nothing like this and would rather not have to make it.

If I manage to get it off does it just push on or have to be pressed back somehow?

Sam

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Haf-e
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Re: Splitting Axle

Post by Haf-e » Mon Nov 13, 2017 9:20 pm

It is possible to separate the outer half of the axle without the factory tool - it depends how well it was glued together with blue loctite when it was assembled. The challenge is not putting too much force on the back side of the brake casting which is thinner and more apt to be damaged.

Putting it back on isn't that difficult - if its clean it should just slide on and if its difficult a simple "TURN BUCKLE" with a chain can be rigged up to pull it slowly inward so that the locking bolt can be inserted.

Finding the right "chisel" is critical to insert into the slot where it gets clamped together - you might need to grind it down to get it thick enough to open it up so it slides on and off easily. The chisel is needed also when reassembling the axle too.
Haf-e

1971 Pinzgauer 710M

Image
Disc Brake Conversion Kits for 710 and 712 Pinzgauers
www.klugewerks.com

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rmel
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Re: Splitting Axle

Post by rmel » Mon Nov 13, 2017 10:17 pm

Haf-e nailed it, The chisel "expander" is key, but may not break the bond entirely.
The one thing to keep an eye on is after re-assembly, the locking bolt is NOT an
alignment bolt, it has a lot of slop. What you need to ensure is that the alignment
is "true" watch for the spacing of the shock absorber. Get that alignment true to eye
then check to make sure there is proper spacing to the shock. I had a rotation
problem so bad that chafing wore right through the shock body. I was lucky enough
that the chisel was sufficient to rotate the wheel drive into proper alignment. More
important than Loctite is torque on the pinch bolts -- which should be checked for
proper torque as routine maintenance.
Puller: 710K 2.7L EFI
Follower: Sankey MK 3, 3/4 Tonne
Driver: Ron // KO0Q

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Jimm391730
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Re: Splitting Axle

Post by Jimm391730 » Mon Nov 13, 2017 11:35 pm

Another trick that I have heard of (not done myself) is to get a "porta power" type tool: https://www.harborfreight.com/4-ton-hea ... 62115.html and is supposed to be faster and easier to remove the axle from the stub.
Jim M.
712W and 710M

SAM. C.
Posts: 141
Joined: Mon Nov 06, 2006 1:08 am
Location: Brisbane, Australia

Re: Splitting Axle

Post by SAM. C. » Tue Nov 14, 2017 5:47 pm

Thanks Guys

Is the chisel a magic little tool or will any cold chisel do?

If it is special I may make one if I can get specs.

Sam

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rmel
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Re: Splitting Axle

Post by rmel » Tue Nov 14, 2017 7:41 pm

I got mine at Harbor Freight. 4" wide. Then you just gently bang it in to expand the joint.
You may need to blunt the edge down so that it just fits in the seam.
Puller: 710K 2.7L EFI
Follower: Sankey MK 3, 3/4 Tonne
Driver: Ron // KO0Q

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Jimm391730
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Re: Splitting Axle

Post by Jimm391730 » Tue Nov 14, 2017 8:18 pm

Is the chisel a magic little tool or will any cold chisel do?
Well, the chisel needs to be narrow enough to be able to get started in the slot, then gradually get thicker as to wedge the slot open enough to get it off the stub before the chisel hits the stub. I would think that a 3/4" or 1" wide chisel would do (opening one area of the slot should open the rest of it) but a 4" wide will certainly do it but may be more difficult to work with. Chisels are relatively cheap so you can always get another and grind it to fit. One advantage of a less wide version is that if you didn't get the slot open enough with one, try a second one next to it that is ground just a bit thicker to open the slot further.

It's only magic when you have the exact thickness and taper that does the job for you!
Jim M.
712W and 710M

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4x4Pinz
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Re: Splitting Axle

Post by 4x4Pinz » Thu Nov 16, 2017 7:16 pm

I use a blunt cold chisel that is 3/4" to spread the clamp on the end of outer able housing. A 2x4 cut to length from the top of able housing to body to keep the axle level. Then the pinz Jack with the pump of the Jack facing down so it can pick up fluid when pumping. Once the able have have split an inch or so they should slide off. Reinstall with cold chisel in clamp as with removal and it should slide on freely. Use a liberal amount of loctite on the housing as this is part of the attachment process. It is a good idea to order up a new o ring for the end of the axle.

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