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The front locker is seized to the horizontal bar that all of the locker arms rotate on. I'm very nervous about tapping it. Penetrating grease hasnt done much after a few hours. Any advice?

You're right to use caution as they have been known to break at the casting

It may be that the piston is seized in the locker or slave cylinder (Group 07-20). You could try disassembling the locker controls first (Group 07-15). It looks far more complicated than it really is and if you break the handle you'll have to do it anyway.

Good luck!

100% seized to the bar. I have the whole assembly out. The levers and cross bar are laying here in front of me separated from the lockers. Rears rotate just fine. Darn front is completely locked to the hollow bar

Machinist's secret penetrating concoction is 50% acetone and 50% transmission fluid. It may help.

Good luck.

Clive

The front locker is seized to the horizontal bar that all of the locker arms rotate on

I'm a little lost.....Do you mean the vertical bar that the cast alloy selector fork pivots on?

Hmmm, after reading it a number of times, I now guess you are talking about the levers inside the cabin, rather than the forks/arms inside the Bearing Housing assembly behind the front diff.
Sorry for the confusion, you had me tossed when you were taking about "arms"!

I'd pull the shaft (it's bolted on the ends) complete with all the levers and after soaking them in Penetrating Oil, find a suitable bit of tube that fits over the shaft and seats against the bottom lever casting, then set it up in a press and push the shaft out through all the cast bases, all at the same time....be careful of the plastic sleeves, but they should be able to withstand the load.

.....and yes, as Paul said, they do break......It's usually the rear diff lock one in a 712 which effectively operates two master cylinders.
When I purchased mine (it was only about 10 years old at the time, but it had, had a HARD life) custom made steel collars/levers were fitted.

That was my mistake - you're correct with the final assessment. The two end bolts have been removed, and the bar, along with the levers are soaking.

I'll let it soak for a few days and give it a tap. Its the only way short of heat that I can come up with.

I also modified the center lever as it was cracking where in keyed into operating two master cyl. I placed a long clevis pin through the hole on the handle, as well as the two pivot point to its right and left. Perfect fit, and removed the pressure on the cracks.

Just be careful with heat as you've got the Plastic bushes/spacers between the lever units.
I'd be surprised if soaking and a little bit of mechanical persuasion doesn't get the job done.
Good luck!