Transfer case lever/cable connection

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namtinker
Canada
Posts: 40
Joined: Fri Jul 08, 2016 1:21 pm
Location: Alberta, Canada

Transfer case lever/cable connection

Post by namtinker »

Gents
I just replaced the shift lever on the transfer case because the ball joint connection was rusted solid, with the cable sheared cleanly. Obviously the PO never used the transfer case. Looking at the replacements, and the challenge in getting/cleaning this everytime, it looks like the ideal application for a custom molded silicone protective boot.
I’ve done this before on a different vehicle, but before I do, I’d just like to check if anybody else has done something similar already.
Essentially one positions the lever midway between the two end engagements (high/low range). Note the posistion, then remove the lever, but leave it attached to the cable. Then buffer the joint below the cup with moulding clay to create a small void at the pivot. Then you apply silicone moulding compound along the whole connection, 60-75mm in both directions from the pivot.
Leave to set. Then insert a screwdriver into a small tube, slip under the silicone and push until the tube reaches the pivot void. Do the same on the other side. Inject teflon grease through the tube, filling the void. Remove the tubes.
The same principle as a propellor shaft. I’ve had joints like this survive without issues for 2 years, or until silicone failure. This location is pretty well protected, and overall lever movement from center point is well within the flex range of most silicone molding compounds. This specific connection is also pretty "clean", with minimal sharp/pointy parts.

NT
undysworld
Norway
Posts: 1776
Joined: Fri Apr 16, 2004 8:08 am
Location: Blue Mounds, WI

Re: Transfer case lever/cable connection

Post by undysworld »

NT,

I guess I'd be leery of such a fix.

Since it was rusted already, it's obvious that there is the potential for rust. Generally, when I've heard of a rust-prone area getting sealed with some sort of goop, the end result is often that water got through anyway and with the goop protecting that water it ends up rusting even worse before someone finds it.

Here's a recent example: viewtopic.php?f=9&t=10574 Same comments seem to apply when coatings such as Rhino Lining is used.

The fact that you've used such a setup successfully for 2 years doesn't say much with respect to a 40 y.o. vehicle. The longer I've owned my truck, the more evident it has become that the original design is pretty robust. I always stick to the adage that: if it ain't broke, don't fix it. Most of us have not experienced a failure such as you did. You were probably right that the failure occurred through lack of use by the P.O. I'd repair it back to stock, lube it up, and keep shifting that transfer case.
63rover
Canada
Posts: 239
Joined: Thu Oct 10, 2013 8:18 pm
Location: Mt. Hope, Ont., Canada

Re: Transfer case lever/cable connection

Post by 63rover »

I've run into similar problems with seldom used clevis points on the range shift of a Land Rover Discovery. A simple solution once the offending part is freed and working soak it with Fluid Film spray until it is dripping off. Fluid Film will lubricate and seal the joint, cable, or whatever and make it water proof. Simple fix, easily renewed (I do it annually to all pivot points I can find including door locks. They don't ice up in winter with a light spay in the tumblers too.) and made in America! Nice to know a local, inexpensive, simple solution can still be had. By the way it is also food safe and no risk to the environment.

Cheers, Clive
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David Dunn
United States of America
Posts: 2274
Joined: Wed Apr 14, 2004 7:08 pm
Location: Arcadia, CA

Re: Transfer case lever/cable connection

Post by David Dunn »

It isn't that uncommon for the cable to seize on the lever on top of the T-case. It comes from mud collecting on top of the T case and not washed off and sprayed with lube. It starts off with difficulty shifting due to the cable end not pivoting on the transfer case lever (the cable is force to follow the arc of the lever), and ends up with the cable or the threads breaking from the twisting. No reason to re-invent the wheel. The same configuration was used all the way through to the end of production of the Pinz in 2007ish. Just a little pm on all exposed pivoting and moving parts.
.
The Trojan Horse... the 1st Pinz used to covertly carry troops into battle .




ATL Pinzgauer XM 718K TUM(HD) 6x6 FFR (aka The Green Grail)
namtinker
Canada
Posts: 40
Joined: Fri Jul 08, 2016 1:21 pm
Location: Alberta, Canada

Re: Transfer case lever/cable connection

Post by namtinker »

Thanks. Comments appreciated. I'm not leary if it will work. I know it will - being originally from a location in Africa where metal started rusting in less than 12 hours.
I was more curious if there were other solutions. Not the easiest location to get to quickly. I have not been able to remove the access panel yet, and may have to drill all the screws. Had to remove the exhaust.
Truck is getting soda blasted tomorrow, and then I'll see.
Will try the Film first.
Thanks guys.
63rover
Canada
Posts: 239
Joined: Thu Oct 10, 2013 8:18 pm
Location: Mt. Hope, Ont., Canada

Re: Transfer case lever/cable connection

Post by 63rover »

For the stuck screws and bolts a good machinist trick is a solution of equal parts of automatic transmission fluid and acetone. Stinks but works better than anything else. Impact screwdriver (hit with a hammer) is great too. I even removed damaged Philips head screws from motorcycle engine casings with this one.

Good luck!

Cheers, Clive
namtinker
Canada
Posts: 40
Joined: Fri Jul 08, 2016 1:21 pm
Location: Alberta, Canada

Re: Transfer case lever/cable connection

Post by namtinker »

Clive
I'll mix up some. The standard liquids I've used so far has not been working. The oxidation on the alloys, especially the rivnuts is bad.
I've had mixed results with the impact driver. It works well on solid threads, but not on the rivnuts. It tends to loosen them, then they rotate. But so we learn!

Coenraad
63rover
Canada
Posts: 239
Joined: Thu Oct 10, 2013 8:18 pm
Location: Mt. Hope, Ont., Canada

Re: Transfer case lever/cable connection

Post by 63rover »

I hate to be the bearer of bad news but likely the rivnut is stuck to the bolt and turning on the sheet metal. You may have to drill it out and replace. Princess Auto sells a kit that I used for replacing the threaded inserts for my side rails.

Clive
namtinker
Canada
Posts: 40
Joined: Fri Jul 08, 2016 1:21 pm
Location: Alberta, Canada

Re: Transfer case lever/cable connection

Post by namtinker »

Yup, exactly the case. Ordered the kit from Mcmaster, with metric rivnuts, and a bunch of M6 bolts. All stainless.
Truck was soda/ glass blasted yesterday. Before I replace the lever, all the POR-15 and topcoat work.
There are many rivnuts in the truck...

Coenraad
namtinker
Canada
Posts: 40
Joined: Fri Jul 08, 2016 1:21 pm
Location: Alberta, Canada

Re: Transfer case lever/cable connection

Post by namtinker »

So, after a 2 hour battle under the truck I got the old lever off. What a pain when the retaining metal strip for the bolt is rusted to it. What is the simplest method to seat the replacement on the shaft? Two wedges between the top of the lever and the bottom of the truck frame? Place the one from the back, and tap the other in from the front?

Cheers
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Hotzenplotz
Austria
Posts: 371
Joined: Wed Jan 18, 2012 9:07 am
Location: Vienna, Austria

Re: Transfer case lever/cable connection

Post by Hotzenplotz »

My Pinz also suffered from a corrosion in the joint on the lever.
I took an angle grinder and cut off the pin with the ball on it, drilled a 5 mm hole and cut an M6 thread there.

Then I installed a stainless joint with a seal

Image

no problems since
Cheers
Albert
========================
My Pinz has NEVER been with any army
namtinker
Canada
Posts: 40
Joined: Fri Jul 08, 2016 1:21 pm
Location: Alberta, Canada

Re: Transfer case lever/cable connection

Post by namtinker »

How did you replace the lever? To drill and tap would have required removing it.
And where did you find the stainless joint and seal? I can retrofit my old lever that way.
I'm tempted to cut another access panel - if it wasn't for as support right above it.

Coenraad
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Hotzenplotz
Austria
Posts: 371
Joined: Wed Jan 18, 2012 9:07 am
Location: Vienna, Austria

Re: Transfer case lever/cable connection

Post by Hotzenplotz »

Coenraad

I looked up a locl distributor of http://www.gebert-kg.de/

removing the lever was a task. I loosenened the 5 platform bolts on the rear end of my 712 and raised the platform until the retaing straps were fully stretched.. then I hammered a screwdriver into the slot of the lever, like a wedge, and used two prybars to raise the lever. Do not forget to indicate the position of the slot on the gearbox; i used a waterproof edding pen.

more details on http://pinzforum.kiruna.de/viewtopic.ph ... ergetriebe
Cheers
Albert
========================
My Pinz has NEVER been with any army
namtinker
Canada
Posts: 40
Joined: Fri Jul 08, 2016 1:21 pm
Location: Alberta, Canada

Re: Transfer case lever/cable connection

Post by namtinker »

Thanks - excellent article. I'll see if I can order some from them. I was trying to avoid lifting the chassis - I simply do not have the equipment to do it safely. I removed the lever using a similar technique you described, just two screwdrivers instead of the bars.
Reinstalling it is going to be challenging. It looks like I may need to get an adjustable leveling wedge of some sort. Position this on top of the lever, then tighten the wedge to push the lever in.
Otherwise I'll cut an access panel, then reinstall with some rivnuts.

Coenraad
namtinker
Canada
Posts: 40
Joined: Fri Jul 08, 2016 1:21 pm
Location: Alberta, Canada

Re: Transfer case lever/cable connection

Post by namtinker »

So for anybody else trying to reinstall this lever...
It can be done with a small crowbar from the left side of the truck. Remove the exhaust and shield, then play with the leverage and angles. I ended up fitting the bar in, then moving the pivot point (in this case a screwdriver) until the lever pushed straight in.
Just be gentle until the notches line up, then a firm push slides it in.

Coenraad
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