THE PORTAL HUB - Pinzgauers, Haflingers, Volvo 303s and more!

It's time to replace the inner seal on the drivers side rear wheel. I watched the tech video as well as read the service manual instructions and have most of the necessary tools, but not the specialized ones. Are these tools available as rentals from one of the Pinz suppliers? If not does a member have the tools available for rental, or are there substitute tools available from a car part place like O'Reilly's?

I would call Scott at EI
He may have them to rent/loan

big pullers .. thats it.. i had to fab my own

i checked the EI web site and there was no mention of a tool loan program. I'll get with Scott just in case he's willing to take pity on me and loan some tools.

There is a video on youtube of the Russian guy with the CTIS system on his Pinz where he does it without any fancy tools - but his was probably recently apart and lot in place for 30 years like a lot of Pinzgauers.

I'll see if I can find it...

Here it is.... do it at your own risk!

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SPjINWmta8E

The hub end does not necessarily need to be removed from the axle if you are just doing the hub seals. The hard part (requiring a special puller) is getting the lower gear off the wheel stub axle and this is all part of the outer hub assembly that is unbolted from the inner half of the hub housing, so it can be moved to a bench or press for work. The inner half of the hub can remain attached to the pivoting part from the diff.

Be certain to replace the o-ring under the wear ring; you might not think about it but they can leak (happened to me, and I had to undo everything again to properly fix things).

5 gallon bucket. Appropriately sized deep socket and a 2.5# baby sledge hammer. These trucks were designed to be serviced in the field. Press back together to reassemble.

I figured since I have the thing off I'd strip it down completely to inspect for wear. I'll start to take it apart and see just how well I can disassemble the thing without the special tools. Stand by.

I always replace the seal, o-ring and wear ring to be sure....

I got the drive unit off of the axle, and modified a gear puller to pull off the gear. This didn't work, so i tried to press off the wheel flange through the gear. This didn't work, either. Any advice on getting this thing apart?

Went down to the local auto parts store and got a gear puller that looked like it would do the job. Hooked it up to the gear and it was heldonto the gear rim. I started to screw down on the gear puller and before the gear started to move the gear broke. I either missed a critical piece of info in the video, something was left out, or I've got a bad gear. This has turned from a DIY to a pro job. Anyone know where I can send this thing to get fixed now?

Timm from the GermanPinzgauer forum has designed a puller for that gear. It gets disassebled and inserted into the circular groove of the gear.
Thus the pulling load is evenly distributed around the whole circumference.

details here http://pinzforum.kiruna.de/viewtopic.php?f=4&t=6730

jrcotner wrote:Went down to the local auto parts store and got a gear puller that looked like it would do the job. Hooked it up to the gear and it was heldonto the gear rim. I started to screw down on the gear puller and before the gear started to move the gear broke. I either missed a critical piece of info in the video, something was left out, or I've got a bad gear. This has turned from a DIY to a pro job. Anyone know where I can send this thing to get fixed now?

Sorry to hear the bad news!
You could ask Andre (Texas) when he is back home from his Cali trip,
Dan

Very nice puller Albert found.

FWIW, I'm pretty sure you can still use a gear which may have a bit of the lip broken.

I've modified a cheap Harbor Trash puller to work: http://www.harborfreight.com/gear-pulle ... 62958.html (Sorry, Vince ) The silver legs shown in the photo need to be ground down just a little, so the fingers can get into the groove on the gear. The fingers are a little too thick as purchased. With a little penetrating fluid and tenacity they seem to pull off pretty well, usually. I didn't ever use a torch on them, but a very hot heat gun seemed to help.