THE PORTAL HUB - Pinzgauers, Haflingers, Volvo 303s and more!

I ran across an inexpensive source for the 22mm x 27mm x 1.5mm copper washers used on the fill/level/drain plugs. Rocky Mountain European Imports (http://www.rmeuropean.com/Part-Number/C ... 4F71F.aspx) has them for $0.16. With shipping, 100 cost just under $23. Considering how many are used for each fluid change, especially for those of you with three axles, it never hurts to keep a few lying around.

If you only want a few...NAPA 704-1364 (copper ring) about 95 cents

Or you can anneal your used ones, a trick used for aircraft sparkplug gaskets. Just heat them up with a propane torch for 10 to 20 seconds - or - throw them in your oven, crank it up to 450 F. for five or ten minutes, that should make them soft again.

If you are removing drain/fill plugs be sure to use some anti-seize on the threads when you put them back in, and don't over-torque them!
Remember the cases are aluminum, you could strip the threads

Tom, do you know what torque settings to use on the wrench when putting the drain/fill plugs back in?

I'm using 100 inch. lbs. ( 8 ft.lbs.) Never found the reference to the torque on these plugs but after removing them for the first time (with GREAT effort):shock: and the fact that you are threading into aluminum I decided to go on the moderate side.

This will still make them a firm "break" to unseat when removing. I tap around the head with an Aluminum hammer first and try to unscrew them, if they don't release I use my heat gun to heat the aluminum case around the plug, tap on them again and they'll usually come out.

I always use anti-seize every time I install them.

Thankfully they have never been as tight as they first were.

Scott (E.I.) had custom plugs manufactured that have a large Hex head like a standard bolt, this is a good replacement. Just remember don't over-tighten them, especially without anti-seize since you may just remove the threads in the gear case when trying to remove the plug.