Longer wheel studs
Longer wheel studs
After suffering the near loss of my front driver's wheel when all the nuts came loose, I was thinking about fitting longer studs. I know they're M14x1.5, but how long are they and are studs generally a standard fit
e.g. http://merlinmotorsport.co.uk/product_i ... ts_id=1085
Would threadlock help or should I get the nuts drilled for locking wire?
e.g. http://merlinmotorsport.co.uk/product_i ... ts_id=1085
Would threadlock help or should I get the nuts drilled for locking wire?
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Robin
Pinzgauer 710K
MegaJolt ignition
(upgrading to MicroSquirt)
Robin
Pinzgauer 710K
MegaJolt ignition
(upgrading to MicroSquirt)
- audiocontr
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FWIW, I've never heard of anyone needing to modify things. They seem pretty well designed in their stock configuration.
My guess is that something else was to blame, such as the nuts not being tight enough. If they weren't fully tightened after some service, such as brake work, they may have loosened up. After having a wheel off, I always drive a few miles and recheck tightness. I'd check for damage, and replace any bad parts with original, and leave it be.
My guess is that something else was to blame, such as the nuts not being tight enough. If they weren't fully tightened after some service, such as brake work, they may have loosened up. After having a wheel off, I always drive a few miles and recheck tightness. I'd check for damage, and replace any bad parts with original, and leave it be.
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- Location: Austria, Vienna
One important thing is to retorque them after the first few miles.
And then recheck them regularly.
There were many accidents due to loosened Wheel nuts in
the Austrian army. This was the main reason why SDP changed
the torque specs for the wheel nuts over the time.
The proper torque now is 200 NM. This would translate to 147 lbs/ft.
Richard
And then recheck them regularly.
There were many accidents due to loosened Wheel nuts in
the Austrian army. This was the main reason why SDP changed
the torque specs for the wheel nuts over the time.
The proper torque now is 200 NM. This would translate to 147 lbs/ft.
Richard
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- Posts: 545
- Joined: Mon Jan 03, 2005 1:33 pm
- Location: San Juan Mountains, CO
Wheel Studs and Lugnuts
Just a suggestion...
When putting on lug-nuts run them on just finger tight and then work a cross-over pattern. Start at top and snug it down a bit, then go to the second lug down on either side and snug it down, then go to the first lug down on the opposing side and snug it down and finally go across to the first lug down on the other side and snug it. this should center the wheel and the lug-nuts.
Now... do this pattern again torquing to the final spec. You should be good to go. After a few miles I would again check the torque one last time.
Good Luck
When putting on lug-nuts run them on just finger tight and then work a cross-over pattern. Start at top and snug it down a bit, then go to the second lug down on either side and snug it down, then go to the first lug down on the opposing side and snug it down and finally go across to the first lug down on the other side and snug it. this should center the wheel and the lug-nuts.
Now... do this pattern again torquing to the final spec. You should be good to go. After a few miles I would again check the torque one last time.
Good Luck
Thomas E.
Sonora, CA
712 Camper
[img][url]M:\avatar\DSCN0010%20(Custom).JPG[/url][/img]
Sonora, CA
712 Camper
[img][url]M:\avatar\DSCN0010%20(Custom).JPG[/url][/img]
TwinPinzies - no, I didn't notice they were loose - didn't think it would be a problem until the wheel started wobbling after about 40 road miles.
I know how to put nuts back on and had torqued them to 100nm, which I thought was the correct setting - I'll know to do them tighter from now on!
I know how to put nuts back on and had torqued them to 100nm, which I thought was the correct setting - I'll know to do them tighter from now on!
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Robin
Pinzgauer 710K
MegaJolt ignition
(upgrading to MicroSquirt)
Robin
Pinzgauer 710K
MegaJolt ignition
(upgrading to MicroSquirt)
-
- Posts: 545
- Joined: Mon Jan 03, 2005 1:33 pm
- Location: San Juan Mountains, CO
If lug nuts are not greased correct torque will not be applied. If no grease is applied likelihood of nuts “freezing“ on studs also greatly increases. The manuals call for the nuts to be greased. As has been previously mentioned and is described in the manual, when changing wheels engage all lockers, remove and replace wheel and torque lug nuts with wheel off ground. Concerning painted wheels, if wheels are newly painted you may need to check wheel torque a number of times (over a period of days / weeks) until paint has become fully compressed and the thickness has been stabilized.
Ed
Ed
Cum catapultae proscriptae erunt tum soli proscript catapultas habebunt.
I found trying to torque them without grease on the contact surfaces made some very unpleasant noises - could also lead to corrosion problems which would mean the undoing torque was even higher which might snap a stud. They're only 14mm studs and I've snapped M16 bolts on the Land Rover before now
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Robin
Pinzgauer 710K
MegaJolt ignition
(upgrading to MicroSquirt)
Robin
Pinzgauer 710K
MegaJolt ignition
(upgrading to MicroSquirt)