Clutch won't fully disengage

[audiocontr]

Most of the time... I say most as there are some times that it does and all is normal. As I posted previously, reverse grinds and I realized today that while in first, clutch fully in, I won't roll back. Jim stated to look for fibers in then clutch inspection cover and sticking fingers. I looked and it's spotless in there. Fingers all look even. I even bled the hydraulic fluid. I'm hoping it's not the throw out bearing.

Is it possible that I need to lengthen the small bar exposed behind the inspection cover to fully disengage the clutch? If so, how much?

[Jim LaGuardia]

Some tips, pedal free play should be minimal, there is an adjustable rod behind the clutch master. While in there check the pivot pin for excessive wear. If all is adjusted and bled measure the arm travel and compare with repair manual spec. If it has the proper travel you may have a fractured disk or damaged pressure plate.
There is an alternative to changing the slave pin length, but it requires trans removal, put a washer(.020-.040") between the fork pivot and the bell housing.
Use a GM 10 spline clutch alignment tool if you need to remove the clutch.

[audiocontr]

Thanks Jim.

[audiocontr]

Posted a video of the movement. I hear a slight squeel on engagement. Is that normal?

Im leaning towards lengthening the pin as all other clearances appear normal. Pin is not worn, travel is exactly the same as my other pinz. Its properly bled as well

Is it possible to place a TEMPORARY item in the slave pin receptacle (to lengthen by a few mm) as a test?


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=W70HlCY0_gQ

[audiocontr]

Added 2mm to the slave pin. Slides into gear smooth. Zero effort, however i had barely any free play before i could hear the bearing engage. Trimmed the pin to 1mm and its perfect. just a bit of free play at the top and plenty of pedal.

Its amazing that a 1mm tolerance can make that much difference.