THE PORTAL HUB - Pinzgauers, Haflingers, Volvo 303s and more!

OK I am about to replace my front axle boot with a solid boot. I have the pinz spring compressors and the axle press off tool. Just some quick questions.

Can I remove the stearing arm directly off the hub by the 3 attaching bolt and or nuts? That should allow me to put it back together without any adjustment to stearing. Will oil leak out of the hub (should I drain it first)?

Current action plan:
1. Block back tires and jack it up via differential housing and insert jack stand at a height the opposite tire can barely touch the ground to compensate for weight removed from the work side.
2. remove tire and place nuts to keep brake in place
3. remove tie rod by 3 attaching bolts/nuts.
4. pinch off brake line with hose clamp and remove from hub.
5. compress spring until removable.
6. remove over limit strap and shock (inspect for wear).
7. attach axle press off tool. Measure / mark where things are located for reference in reassembly.
8. work the chisel into the split to relieve clamping force keeping the halfs together.
9. remove the current boot clamps
10. work the axle half off with the press off tool and set aside checking condition of o-ring. (care not to drop)
11. work old boot off cleaning things as needed.
12. put on new boot with a good silicon sealant on connection surfaces and clamp in place.
13. fit things back together in reverse
14. bleed brakes.

Possible gotchas:
oil leaks
worn o-ring
worn or damaged ring boot attaches to
bolts not wanting to come out (kroil + heat + possibly have to drill out)
spring bomb

Anything I am missing?
Thanks
Scott

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If it were me I would not pinch a brake line. I not want to risk damaging the line. It could likely stand blessing anyway.

Radmanrugg,

I'll quote and reply.

1. Block back tires and jack it up via differential housing and insert jack stand at a height the opposite tire can barely touch the ground to compensate for weight removed from the work side.

So long as the opposite is off the ground, the weight you remove will only lift the side you remove further. Good to go.

2. remove tire and place nuts to keep brake in place

I actually remove the drum to reduce weight.

3. remove tie rod by 3 attaching bolts/nuts.

You don't necessarily gain by complete removal of the tie rod. I'd just pop the outer connection.

5. compress spring until removable.

VERY IMPORTANT. Only compress it as far as the manual allows. IIRC, like 10 1/2", but that's from memory. CHECK!! You can damage the spring otherwise.

6. remove over limit strap and shock

At least one end of each.

6.5 Remove axle clamp nut/bolts and centering bolt. All three must be removed!

Measure / mark where things are located for reference in reassembly.

No. Centering bolt locates wheel drive into stub axle.

checking condition of o-ring.

You're this far. Buy a new o-ring and replace the dam* thing now.

I like to assemble the boot with loctite, and allow it to dry, before attempting to slide it onto the stub axle. Otherwise, it's hard to get it to stay together. If it splits, I seal it with RTV.

Pinching the line carefully is likely okay, but otherwise it's an opportunity to flush the line/s. If the lines are old and brittle, it might be wise to replace them regardless.

edzz wrote: It could likely stand blessing anyway.

Ed - I think anyone who has survived a panic stop in a pinz is still praying for better brakes. What is the appropriate prayer?

ccalingaert wrote:

edzz wrote: It could likely stand blessing anyway.

Ed - I think anyone who has survived a panic stop in a pinz is still praying for better brakes. What is the appropriate prayer?

Have to agree with my phones spelling correction in this case.

I was actually thinking bleeding the brakes would be a good idea however blessing them probably is a good idea too.

I really must remember to poof read what my phone comes up wuth.

What is the appropriate prayer?

"Our Lady of Prodigious Deceleration, don't fail us now."

It works quite well, so long as your brakes are correctly adjusted.

5. compress spring until removable.

VERY IMPORTANT. Only compress it as far as the manual allows. IIRC, like 10 1/2", but that's from memory. CHECK!! You can damage the spring otherwise.

Does anyone have a manual in front of them? I have my springs in the car, going to get them banded today. Don't want to mess up the springs......

If not, I'll reference the manual tonight....

stiffler4444 wrote:

5. compress spring until removable.

VERY IMPORTANT. Only compress it as far as the manual allows. IIRC, like 10 1/2", but that's from memory. CHECK!! You can damage the spring otherwise.

Does anyone have a manual in front of them? I have my springs in the car, going to get them banded today. Don't want to mess up the springs......

If not, I'll reference the manual tonight....

Page 4 of the BODY Section:

This may help too:

Here you go: 280 mm = 11 in

Excellent thanks!


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