Battery won't hold a charge
Battery won't hold a charge
I recently purchased a 712m and two days ago had a stereo put in. The next day the battery died and wouldn't hold a charge. I replaced a fuse that was blown near the battery volt converter with a 25 volt fuse? It did fix one issue with alowing the accessories to work cog lighter etc. However the battery still woulnt hold a charge so I had a mechanic test the alternator (all good) then I read that some ppl had an issue with the molex connector. So I pulled that out and noticed inside that the copper wiring was frayed so I had it soldered. All seemed well till I turned the radio on and again battery won't hold a charge. I also notice my heater turns on when I turn my lights on. What the Hells going on?
1. How long have you had the truck?
2. Would the batteries hold a charge before the radio was installed?
3. Have the battery’s been center taped to provide 12 volt power? (not a good idea)
4. Was everything working correctly prior to having the radio installed?
5. 25 volt fuse? Do you mean to say 25 amp fuse?
6. Battery volt converter? Do you mean 24 volt to 12 volt converter?
7. Was the main power shutoff switch bypassed by the radio installer?
8. Heater turns on with lights? Has someone been fiddling with the wiring under the dash?
When you say you “had” the radio installed and “had” the frayed wiring soldered I’m guessing you don’t usually work on your own wiring. I’m also guessing that the persons you have been dealing with may have limited knowledge of older military vehicles in general. Unless you want to spend the time to learn and understand the electrical system (not everyone’s cup of tea) I would suggest giving Jim LaGuardia http://www.goatwerks.com/home.htm in San Bernardino a call and making arrangements for him to work the bugs out. He’s the best Pinzgauer mechanic in the area. For more local help you may want to call Michael (pinzwheeling) at http://www.ramonamotors.com/ in Ramona he maybe able to suggest an automotive electrician closer to you; however my guess is he’ll want to send you to Jim.
Ed
2. Would the batteries hold a charge before the radio was installed?
3. Have the battery’s been center taped to provide 12 volt power? (not a good idea)
4. Was everything working correctly prior to having the radio installed?
5. 25 volt fuse? Do you mean to say 25 amp fuse?
6. Battery volt converter? Do you mean 24 volt to 12 volt converter?
7. Was the main power shutoff switch bypassed by the radio installer?
8. Heater turns on with lights? Has someone been fiddling with the wiring under the dash?
When you say you “had” the radio installed and “had” the frayed wiring soldered I’m guessing you don’t usually work on your own wiring. I’m also guessing that the persons you have been dealing with may have limited knowledge of older military vehicles in general. Unless you want to spend the time to learn and understand the electrical system (not everyone’s cup of tea) I would suggest giving Jim LaGuardia http://www.goatwerks.com/home.htm in San Bernardino a call and making arrangements for him to work the bugs out. He’s the best Pinzgauer mechanic in the area. For more local help you may want to call Michael (pinzwheeling) at http://www.ramonamotors.com/ in Ramona he maybe able to suggest an automotive electrician closer to you; however my guess is he’ll want to send you to Jim.
Ed
Cum catapultae proscriptae erunt tum soli proscript catapultas habebunt.
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undysworld
- Posts: 1776
- Joined: Fri Apr 16, 2004 8:08 am
- Location: Blue Mounds, WI
I'm suspecting you've actually got 2 or more problems here. Since the problems apparently started with the stereo install (?), I'd at least look it all over first.
It likely has 2 "+" leads (likely yellow and red, one for memory, one for functions) and 1 "-" lead (likely black). I'd be sure the ground runs to the converters ground, just to be safe.
Batteries in 24v vehicles can take a beating, which sometimes can cause 1 battery to die prematurely. Ask me how I know. The truck senses 24v, and will start to charge whenever it drops too low. BUT, if your batteries are not evenly charged, it's likely that the higher-charged battery will get over charged while the lower-charged battery gets under charged. This is bad for batteries.
For this reason, many folks run battery equalizers (follow directions carefully). I have also taken to charging up both batteries occasionally just to prevent mismatched charges between them.
If i were you, I'd also check for any battery drain while the truck is off, and then try and track down that heater/light issue.
That or be glad you're on the w. coast and call Jim!
It likely has 2 "+" leads (likely yellow and red, one for memory, one for functions) and 1 "-" lead (likely black). I'd be sure the ground runs to the converters ground, just to be safe.
Batteries in 24v vehicles can take a beating, which sometimes can cause 1 battery to die prematurely. Ask me how I know. The truck senses 24v, and will start to charge whenever it drops too low. BUT, if your batteries are not evenly charged, it's likely that the higher-charged battery will get over charged while the lower-charged battery gets under charged. This is bad for batteries.
For this reason, many folks run battery equalizers (follow directions carefully). I have also taken to charging up both batteries occasionally just to prevent mismatched charges between them.
If i were you, I'd also check for any battery drain while the truck is off, and then try and track down that heater/light issue.
That or be glad you're on the w. coast and call Jim!
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Twin Pinzies
- Posts: 545
- Joined: Mon Jan 03, 2005 1:33 pm
- Location: San Juan Mountains, CO
The only electrical issues that I have ever seen with Pinzgauers were directly linked to the installation of stereos, CB radios, electric windshield washer pumps, electric fold-down steps, etc,...
Keep it simple stupid (k.i.s.s.) seems to be a better idea with the Pinzgauers's already weak and sketchy electrical systems.
Keep it simple stupid (k.i.s.s.) seems to be a better idea with the Pinzgauers's already weak and sketchy electrical systems.
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undysworld
- Posts: 1776
- Joined: Fri Apr 16, 2004 8:08 am
- Location: Blue Mounds, WI
Well, it's a bit different than a modern 12v system, with multiple computers and can-busses and fiber-optics or whatever. But perhaps that just means less things to fail!the Pinzgauers's already weak and sketchy electrical systems.
I've always been impressed with the Pinz electrical system. Not it's robust-ness, but it's straightforward design. (And don't even get me going on having circuit breakers - brilliant.) It reminds me of Lotus race cars; built robust enough to complete it's task, but not built to overkill.
That said, it is 34 years old (in my case), and has some issues associated to age. (But then, I have issues associated with age too, so I can't be too self-righteous.) If you aren't asking it to do too much, it's a great, reliable setup.
If you understand 12v auto electrics, the jump to the 12/24 system is not too huge. But if you don't feel competent on it, I'd employ someone who does and get it fixed right. Part of fixing something right is knowing when you should not do it yourself.
70 amps.