My starter button has begun acting up. If I push it all the way down nothing happens. If I push it partially down the starter works and the engine starts right up. Wires on the back of the switch are fine so I think maybe the internal contacts are failing. Any ideas other than replacing the button? A new one is $125 that I'd rather not spend. Or if someone has a new one for sale, pm me.
Why don't you pop that thing out. If you don't feel like pulling it apart yourself, bring it over and I'll help. I've got no idea of whether we can fix it or not, never tried. But we could learn how it was put together at a minimum, and maybe effect a repair.
If nothing else, you can see the insides of a carburetor, since one of mine is in pieces for a rebuild, just FYI. Wow, lots of parts!
And I'm still waiting for a play-by-play of your spring-cup replacement job. (I see you've got the third 710 listed as "for sale" now too, so I'm assuming the job's complete.)
let me know what you guys figure out I'm having a similar issue though it could be related to the cold killing my batteries. Will be getting some new batteries soon and then will troubleshoot.
Anyone know what battery size we have as the ones in my truck were undersized as evidence by the wood spacer used to clamp them down.
1974 712M AKA the Banana
1974 710M AKA the project truck
1987 718M Now Sold
1975 Volvo TGB1111 Now Sold
1973 Pinzgauer 712M x2 Now Sold
1963 404S Now Sold
Group 27 size has worked for me with the original battery tray and hold-down bracket. There seems to be some small variances between manufacturers so you might want to measure first. A pair of Interstate batteries I tried wouldn't fit but AC Delcos worked fine.
The Unimog 404 uses the identical starter button at about $50-60 cheaper. Part of the cost of the button is the fact that it uses 3 terminals that are isolated from each other. We stock them, but they are not on the site.
The starter button has 24V coming in from the ignition switch. One wire is going to the starter solenoid. One wire is going to the ballast resistor for the higher voltage bypass on startup.
It is somewhat common among budget minded Unimog guys to eliminate the bypass to the ballast resistor and use a standard 2 contact starter button in the 15-30 range. If the truck is running well (ignition in good shape) you probably would not see a difference of 5 less volts at startup with the bypass removed.
Wurth makes a spray in electrical "Contact Cleaner" that works amazingly well on cleaning up older switches. Spray it in and cycle the switch. Also works well on the battery switches.
Cheers,
Scott
Expedition Imports Corporation
Vallejo, California www.expedition-imports.com
"You didn't buy a Chevy..." "Hows that Amazon tech support working out...."
If I push it all the way down nothing happens. If I push it partially down the starter works and the engine starts right up. Wires on the back of the switch are fine so I think maybe the internal contacts are failing. Any ideas other than replacing the button? A new one is $125 that I'd rather not spend. Or if someone has a new one for sale, pm me.
