Brake Drum Restoration - and query

[ako]

So I am painting my rims and cleaning up my brake drums as I work my way around the 6 of them.

Ther manual says to check the internal face is 285mm standard and 287mm at the wear limit. Will get the verniers out for that job.


The manual says to put the bolts in the two extra holes to force the drum off. For those of you in America who might need to order in some bolts before the job, you a metric M10 x 45mm (or so) length bolt.



Screwing in the bolts at an equal rate will get you to this position :



View of the brake linings and the hub. This side seems more worn than the others. Will need to check measurements again :



So now I have removed all the rust from the outside face which mates up to the rim. Note the hammer strikes on the face from the previous 'mechanics' :



And cleaned up the inside face which mates to the hub :



So now my question - would you consider painting any of the surfaces to prevent rust coming back. Something like a VHT high temp paint?

Of course I would mask up the contact (braking) surface before painting.

My concern would be the layer of paint would prevent the drums from radiating the heat away. Never done much work on drum brakes before, so putting this one out to the experts.

On the other hand I get anal retentive about rust and lie in bed at night worrying about it

Thanks for any advice offered.

[Hotzenplotz]

short answer: I had my drums sandblasted, and then I used a heat resisting "oven paint" that is said to last up to 600 °C.

I used masking tape for the contact area with the rim; and covered the whole rear opening with a piece of paperboard.Then I painted the drums with a brush to "rub in" the paint to the raw sandblasted surface.

No issues so far.

[ako]

OK. Great. Thanks.

My only concerns were overheating as I am probably 30-50C higher ambient temps than you at any time.

But after second thoughts a clean painted surface probably transfer heat better than built up rust anyway.

[Profpinz]

Your brake drums are looking good!

However out of necessity, I went one step further when I "rebuilt" my 712 drums a few years ago, as they were pretty much knackered.
Firstly I sand blasted the whole lot (braking surface as well) then I had the braking surfaces metal sprayed and machined back to factory original specs.
Finally I sprayed them with a thin coating of heat proof paint......and no heat problems even in Australian Summers

Yes, it would have been easier just to buy new drums, but not only was the purchase cost high, but also the shipping costs (given the weight) to Aus were....hmmm...high

[ako]

I know what you mean about shipping.

From the USA I pay 10 USD / lb or that's 22 USD a kilo.

Hate to think what 6 drums in packaging would weigh

[TechMOGogy]

The manual says to put the bolts in the two extra holes to force the drum off. For those of you in America who might need to order in some bolts before the job, you a metric M10 x 45mm (or so) length bolt.

Just for info:
The bolts to remove the drums should be located in the bulk head behind the driver and passenger in the cargo area
See post by Paul here http://real4x4forums.com/PinzgauerBBS/v ... 128#p57128

[63rover]

As far as heating and cooling are concerned remember the principles of physics apply universally. Darker colours absorb and radiate heat fastest. Lighter colours do so slower. Black high heat would be a great choice. (The old air cooled Triumph motorcycles used to come with black painted cylinder cooling fins. Others didn't do so only to save money on manufacturing.)

Cheers, Clive

[ako]

So following the advice of above, the drums were full stripped back to bare metal and painted with a Rustoleum Black calliper paint.

The I made a quick acad template to paint the inside of my hub to match the rims. Will need to sort out the rest of the hub when I sort the leaks on the portals.



Doesn't look too bad for a rattle can job :



Then I sanded about 6-8 layers of paint off the rim and painted it Krlyon camouflage ultra flat Olive. I know I still need to do the wheel nuts.



The white on the tyre is overspray from when the truck was decommissioned, will need all new rubber anyway, just saving up for that one.

Thanks to all that offered advice, now to repeat on 5 more drums.

[TechMOGogy]

Looks great!

[krick3tt]

I sprayed the rims and nuts at the same time. Every time the wheel is removed or installed the nuts will have to be repainted.

[Jimm391730]

Nice job!

[Texas710]

Thanks for the pictures, have read about the procedure, but visuals help.

Nice job, BTW.

[stiffler4444]

The manual says to put the bolts in the two extra holes to force the drum off. For those of you in America who might need to order in some bolts before the job, you a metric M10 x 45mm (or so) length bolt.

Just for info:
The bolts to remove the drums should be located in the bulk head behind the driver and passenger in the cargo area
See post by Paul here http://real4x4forums.com/PinzgauerBBS/v ... 128#p57128

Ha! Wondered what those were for!