THE PORTAL HUB - Pinzgauers, Haflingers, Volvo 303s and more!

Any tricks to removing and replacing this item? Knowing that it is over the starter and I really don't want to drip fluid over the starter when I take it out.
Should I remove it then remove the hydraulic line or the other way around?
I have ordered the repair manual but it isn't here yet.

Morris

First, this belongs in Driveline section. Second, there is no need to de-tatch line. It will not leak until piston is removed(use a drip tray or small can) and recon in sitchu as line is plenty long. remove piston lock ring with a small pick or tiny screw driver, set assembly in can or tray and gently push down pedal till piston pops out.
Now clean out the bore and rinse with brake cleaner, install piston seal(lube it with breke fluid) and re-assemble. You can even bleed it over the drip tray before re mounting to minimize mess

Thanks Jim,
Went in fine, works like it should.

Thanks for the information here very handy. I would think replacing the seal on the piston would be in order, or would you suggest just inspection for wear and reuse after cleaning cylinder, should i hone the cylinder?

NO! DO NOT HONE IT!

Scott I. told me that you only clean it out. There's a lining which can get pitted, and that means it's junk.

Can be drilled and a stainless insert sleeve is installed.

...and what is the cost for that?

A new one is $185

So i started off with the old quick fix which worked on alot of older foreign rigs in the past as a temp fix flushed the unit using the bleeder screw ran about a full two cans of fluid through it till the fluid was nice and clear. Ran my 710 all day over rough ground and no seepage at all. going to open it up anyway to look for any wear and tear (pitting) so i can decide weather to have it sleeved or buy a backup

Morris, the cost was $65. Was not for the pinz. But sure would cost close local brake shop completed it original was chrome lined