
Do it yourself.... brake shoe relining
Do it yourself.... brake shoe relining
Anyone ever tried to re-line there brake shoes? Thought i would try it on the rears to start. Any tips would be great! Which type of pad would you use: Low-Friction, Med-friction, High friction or Semimetallic? Anyone know how wide the pad (not shoe) is? trying to keep from removing the drum just to measure
Thanks, Shawn

74 710 RAGTOP
Jeeps 74,86,92
max iv 6x6
Excursion
Ford f350 D
Jeeps 74,86,92
max iv 6x6
Excursion
Ford f350 D
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- Posts: 322
- Joined: Mon Mar 22, 2010 3:07 pm
- Location: Middletown, New York
Only way I would ever consider this is if they were no longer available...why would you?...you are not going to save much money and actually no money if you dont already have the rivets,the liner and the tools to install said items, its one of those jobs that just has no payback..but surely can be done if you really want to!
life is like a box of chocolates...you never know which one you might get
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I am always up for a challengeNC_Mog wrote:I don't know why you would. If you can get the friction material, re-riveting new material on an existing shoe is pretty cheap done at a heavy truck brake place.

74 710 RAGTOP
Jeeps 74,86,92
max iv 6x6
Excursion
Ford f350 D
Jeeps 74,86,92
max iv 6x6
Excursion
Ford f350 D
-
- Posts: 1776
- Joined: Fri Apr 16, 2004 8:08 am
- Location: Blue Mounds, WI
The originals are riveted on. I believe it's the lowest sticky pad material. It was 1/4" thick, as close to metric as I was told was easily available.
I was advised that rivets are preferable to bonding, especially in the case of a vehicle that sits for many months idle. Rust can develop between the pad and backing causing a failure. Maybe rivets are less prone to this, I can't say.
If you've got exchange shoes, you could just swap out the parts and be done in no time. Otherwise, you've got brake component parts laying around until the shoes get relined.
That said, I'd order them from SAV or Jim L. as exchanges.
I contacted a local reliner, who promised to do them for $20-25 per shoe. I even measured everything. He'd strip 'em, media blast 'em, primer and paint 'em, and then reline them. So I pulled 'em and drove to his shop and dropped them off. I returned to find a $300 bill, or $37.50 per shoe. "Oh, they were bigger than I expected." Yeah, Bu!!shi#.
Moral, if it's too good to be true, it probably is. SAV and Jim's prices seem very fair.
I was advised that rivets are preferable to bonding, especially in the case of a vehicle that sits for many months idle. Rust can develop between the pad and backing causing a failure. Maybe rivets are less prone to this, I can't say.
If you've got exchange shoes, you could just swap out the parts and be done in no time. Otherwise, you've got brake component parts laying around until the shoes get relined.
That said, I'd order them from SAV or Jim L. as exchanges.
I contacted a local reliner, who promised to do them for $20-25 per shoe. I even measured everything. He'd strip 'em, media blast 'em, primer and paint 'em, and then reline them. So I pulled 'em and drove to his shop and dropped them off. I returned to find a $300 bill, or $37.50 per shoe. "Oh, they were bigger than I expected." Yeah, Bu!!shi#.
Moral, if it's too good to be true, it probably is. SAV and Jim's prices seem very fair.