THE PORTAL HUB - Pinzgauers, Haflingers, Volvo 303s and more!

As we know jacking up the rear of the truck is a real and stressful PITA especially for the 712s. If you took a length of aircraft cable and made a loop to go around the upper and lower shock mounts of all the rear wheels and secured the cable with cable clamps would not all the wheels lift right away? You would be creating a new limiting strap and make the job of jacking up the trucks much easier. If these were made just long enough to just slip over the mounts would be perfect. We would no longer have to jack the truck up so high to work on it.

Mark

Got to see this in action!!!! Explanation is a bit fuzzy.

Am I right that you're talking about a way of lifting from the hub, rather than from the body- so you eliminate the need to take up suspension sag when jacking?

Tony

get a bigger floor jack. Works very easy and leaves nothing in the way when working on the portals. I lift my 712 at the mid diff housing, then place jack stands as needed (central tube, outer body supports, axles...)

4x4Pinz wrote:get a bigger floor jack. Works very easy and leaves nothing in the way when working on the portals. I lift my 712 at the mid diff housing, then place jack stands as needed (central tube, outer body supports, axles...)

Me too. Really simple process.


Sent from my Mobile

Yes to eliminate the lift needed to take out the slack of the Pinz limiting straps. In the garage the Pinz is in there is the garage door opener up above so clearance is an issue. I thought it would be nice to roll a jack under the truck and have the wheels come come up right off the bat. The springs would still be under load from the weight of the truck on the tires. It would be less than 20 bucks in parts and 15 min to make them up.

Mark

Still...no pics. Then it didn't happen.

Morris,

I think it was more of a theoretical thing, rather than after-the-fact.

Mark,

Perhaps if your garage is really low, this might be necessary. But the idea of strapping them on just to lift the truck off the ground seems like a "real and stressful PITA", to borrow your words.

Besides, wouldn't this get in the way of removing the wheel drive unit itself?

Maybe better to just secure taller garage space for those repairs where getting the rear end lifted is needed. Keep the shorter garage for parking the truck.

FWIW, I too use a normal floor jack with a 6x6 on top. Works well and is very stable and cheap.

Thanks Paul.

I really was drawn in to a possible interesting maneuver involving the lifting of the vehicle.
Could have been worth knowing.

M

Interesting idea.
The only thing you want to make 100% sure is that your cable and clamps will hold the force accumulated by the weight of 2 half-axles, 2 wheels and the compressed leaf spring.
You don't want it to be released while you are working under your truck... you might end up pinned between the floor and the wheels... no fun in that I would imagine.

If you're working under the lifted truck (or even just along side), and you haven't lowered it onto blocks or jack stands... well that's Darwin coming at you.

Ever since I had news of a friend being crushed by his antique car while just using the jack, I have always used stands or blocks.
Terrible lesson to learn but one worth keeping in mind.

krick3tt wrote:Ever since I had news of a friend being crushed by his antique car while just using the jack, I have always used stands or blocks.
Terrible lesson to learn but one worth keeping in mind.

At 18 I had a 71 cuda and was changing the gear box and differential oil when she came off the jack. If not for one of the rear wheels bering patially under the car I would have broken more then the 3 ribs.
Jack it, secure all corners with stands or cribbing before climbing under her.

Although I have to say, unless something needs to be done with the wheels off the ground...the pinz has plenty of clearance for most things
that I want to do under it. I really like that.

Stekay wrote:If you're working under the lifted truck (or even just along side), and you haven't lowered it onto blocks or jack stands... well that's Darwin coming at you.

Correct! So with Dr-Nuts' cable and clamps and jack stands,, you take the weight of the wheels and half-axles off the cable, and it is just there to keep the leaf springs compressed... which would probably work (although as a 710 owner I am shooting a bit in the dark when it comes to the rear axles setup of a 712).
At worst, if the clamps don't hold, you'll end up with a truck stucked against the garage ceiling...