THE PORTAL HUB - Pinzgauers, Haflingers, Volvo 303s and more!

I think I have the pistons bottomed-out in the cylinders and the drum still grabs half way across the shoes. One friend has suggested taking the sharp corner off the outer edge of the new shoes. Any others? Thanks!

Were the shoes fitted to the drums? The radius of the shoe must match the drum. A brake shop will have a shoe grinder to do this.

I couldn't find it by searching, but one of the other members on the forum reported that he had installed the shoes reversed end-for-end and the drums wouldn't go on. Try reversing the orientation of the shoes and see if this helps.

Just checking -- did you turn the adjusters all the way in (shorter)?

Jim L. has a place that relines the shoes; I replaced them with the relined shoes on all six wheels of my 712W but did not have them fitted. It took about a year to "wear in" to the drum and stop squealing, but now they work well and quiet.

Are the shoes backwards? I had that problem before I re-positioned them correctly. They go in a certain way, one end is for the adjuster, the other for the piston.

I had mine relined semi-locally, so the shop had never done them for a Pinz before. They weren't shaped to fit. When I initially tried fitting them, they interfered. I chamfered the leading and trailing end edges and they fit in just fine. Like Jim, after several months they wore to the proper shape and quit squealing.

I had ordered new shoes from SAV, although I have not installed them yet. After I cleaned out the mud from the trail ride, it was apparent that the brakes only needed an adjustment so the shoes are still in the box. Hope they fit. The leading and trailing edges are already chamfered.
Presumably they are pinz shoes and won't have to be reworked to fit. I am keeping all these comments stored for future disappointment.

Thanks for the posts on the topic.

Thanks everybody. The shoes are from SAV and were on the right way. The adjusters were turned-in all the way. I have had the problem before. As before, I ended up clamping the shoes in my work mate bench and beveling the outside edge of the linings. I also took off about a sixteenth of an inch from the linings with a body grinder. Then with a little persuasion from a rubber mallet the drums slid on.
Now, I'm learning the techniques of fitting multiple brake lines. Like an earlier post I saw, I had to go back three sections before I could get a coupling to break...

Edzz,

Often times brake lines can be loosened if you heat the brass ends a few times and let it cool in between heatings, then give it a decent crack with a hammer on a hex face. Not so much heat to melt and not so much a hammer blow to deform things. An old BMW mechanic showed me this a few years back, and it really works well.

undysworld wrote:Edzz,

Often times brake lines can be loosened if you heat the brass ends a few times and let it cool in between heatings, then give it a decent crack with a hammer on a hex face. Not so much heat to melt and not so much a hammer blow to deform things. An old BMW mechanic showed me this a few years back, and it really works well.

I suspect this post was meant for Buzz, Not Edzz.

However as I did spend a few years living in Jacksonville FLA in the '70's I can fully understand the confusion.

Mind you during those days I was in the Marine Corps serving as an ASE / ASH (Aviation Support Equipment Technician Electrical / Hydraulics and Structure) while stationed at NAS JAX. I can assure you that I did more than my share of brake jobs when assigned to the hydraulics shop.


Just yanking your chain.

Edzz,

Yup, meant for Buzz. Frankly, I saw the two "Z"s and automatically assumed. D'oh!

No offense taken, for sure. I lived through the '70's too.

Thanks Undys,
I will remember to try that next time. Meanwhile, the truck is operational and I can go hunting again!

Buzz wrote:Meanwhile, the truck is operational and I can go hunting again!

That's all that matters. (I'm more a driver than a mechanic.)