Having little experience in metal work, I decided to follow Bernhard's idea of removing the slider and putting the Sprinter directly onto 1/4" aluminum. How hard can it be to drill/cut aluminum?


Bernhard's schematic is for the passenger side. Some modifications need be made for the driver's. On mine, the steering wheel lines up with the brackets and therefor the aluminum plate. No offset was required. The plate I bought was 21.5" x 15" 1/4" 5053 aluminum. 5053 is hard, fun to drill (sarcasm here) and leaves sharp edges. It cuts well with an angle grinder and forever with a hack saw. A random orbital sander with 60 grit smooths out the edges and will give the surface a "brushed" look.
This photo compares the 1/4" aluminum to the slider, it took off just over 2" in height
I made the front toe catch out of 1/2 x 1/2" aluminum stock (would use 1/2" x 3/4" next time, but even at 1/2" wide the seat is solid). My Pinz floor and mounting brackets were Rhino coated, so I found cutting out 3/16" deep and 1/2" long gave a solid hold in the front of the seat, easy to slide in and no rattling around.
Bolting the seat to the new plate required an access hole to reach the bolt heads inside the seat frame:
Since the seat no longer slides back to see those little pins on the stock slider, I marked the front of the toe catches on the plate, so I can align them for easy seat intallation:
My bottom seat cushion is now 6 1/2" off the deck.
I can actually see the stop light in front of me without goose-necking my neck.
I'm keeping my stock seat with slider (nicely repaired with the "doubler") in case someone significantly shorter (read "wife" here) want's to drive. But for 99% of driving this setup seems to make the good Sprinter seat option, even better.