Air Tunnel Soundproofing
Air Tunnel Soundproofing
I know there were a lot of posts asking about this. So here it is:
This is mostly and arts/crafts project, quickie how-to:
Remove the old rotten insulation (as was the case with mine)
or scrape off the paper/backing if that's all that is left of the old
soundproofing. The original adhesive was freakin' strong, so
this took some good solvent and a lot of scraping with a paint
scraper.
Once the entire tunnel is clean and oil free, I would advise a
quick coat of paint. It only took me about 30 minutes to mask
off the tunnel and using some rattle can rustoleum engine paint
I cleaned up the surfaces and painted them black.
Once everything is dry, use paper and tape to create a template
of the interior space. Transfer the template to 1/2" thick Dynamat.
The Dynamat is almost identical to the material I scraped out of
the tunnel. BEFORE you apply the Dynamat, I would give it a
spray of waterproofing. I was stupid and did it after the fact.
Apply the top first, then the bottom, and be sure to use the tabs
provided. They will keep the wind from ripping the insulation
off and pushing it into the fan. (That would be a bad day) After
you apply the bottom and top, measure, cut, and apply the sides.
With this configuration the sides help seal the top in place.
Roll everything and be sure that the adhesive is solid and that
there are no air bubbles or places that the adhesive did not seal.
Done. This made a huge difference in the sound level in the cab.
PICTURES:
Top installed
This is the bottom prior to installation
Bottom and top installed
Done!
This is mostly and arts/crafts project, quickie how-to:
Remove the old rotten insulation (as was the case with mine)
or scrape off the paper/backing if that's all that is left of the old
soundproofing. The original adhesive was freakin' strong, so
this took some good solvent and a lot of scraping with a paint
scraper.
Once the entire tunnel is clean and oil free, I would advise a
quick coat of paint. It only took me about 30 minutes to mask
off the tunnel and using some rattle can rustoleum engine paint
I cleaned up the surfaces and painted them black.
Once everything is dry, use paper and tape to create a template
of the interior space. Transfer the template to 1/2" thick Dynamat.
The Dynamat is almost identical to the material I scraped out of
the tunnel. BEFORE you apply the Dynamat, I would give it a
spray of waterproofing. I was stupid and did it after the fact.
Apply the top first, then the bottom, and be sure to use the tabs
provided. They will keep the wind from ripping the insulation
off and pushing it into the fan. (That would be a bad day) After
you apply the bottom and top, measure, cut, and apply the sides.
With this configuration the sides help seal the top in place.
Roll everything and be sure that the adhesive is solid and that
there are no air bubbles or places that the adhesive did not seal.
Done. This made a huge difference in the sound level in the cab.
PICTURES:
Top installed
This is the bottom prior to installation
Bottom and top installed
Done!
- audiocontr
- Posts: 1868
- Joined: Fri May 01, 2009 1:30 pm
- Location: Buffalo NY
Re: Air Tunnel Soundproofing
Would this trap water and promote rust?
1973 712m
1968 Haflinger
1965 Pathfinder
1978 GMC Palm Beach (Hey, its got 6 wheels!!)
1968 Haflinger
1965 Pathfinder
1978 GMC Palm Beach (Hey, its got 6 wheels!!)
- TechMOGogy
- Posts: 2831
- Joined: Wed Feb 01, 2012 11:39 am
- Location: Ontario, Canada
Re: Air Tunnel Soundproofing
It is actually Dynaliner which is oil and water resistant plus he sprayed it with waterproofing.audiocontr wrote:Would this trap water and promote rust?
I would bet it would hold a lot less water than the old insulation
You could POR15 the inside of the tunnel and then add dynaliner and your good to go
http://www.dynamat.com/brands/dynaliner/
72 Pathfinder | 75 710M 2.7i | 96 350GDT Worker
Re: Air Tunnel Soundproofing
It shouldn't. Look inside your own. This is a stock "upgrade". And
I say upgrade only because the old stuff was 42 years rotten. This
is what the OEM had there for the past 42 years and I had no rust
at all. Just to be sure, I added the waterproof coating mentioned
above.
I say upgrade only because the old stuff was 42 years rotten. This
is what the OEM had there for the past 42 years and I had no rust
at all. Just to be sure, I added the waterproof coating mentioned
above.
- David Dunn
- Posts: 2274
- Joined: Wed Apr 14, 2004 7:08 pm
- Location: Arcadia, CA
Re: Air Tunnel Soundproofing
The last Pinzgauers did not have matting on the bottom of the tunnel, just the sides and top.
.
The Trojan Horse... the 1st Pinz used to covertly carry troops into battle .
ATL Pinzgauer XM 718K TUM(HD) 6x6 FFR (aka The Green Grail)
The Trojan Horse... the 1st Pinz used to covertly carry troops into battle .
ATL Pinzgauer XM 718K TUM(HD) 6x6 FFR (aka The Green Grail)
Re: Air Tunnel Soundproofing
If there aren't any tabs on the bottom, I'd probably use
a couple washers and sheet metal screws to secure the
soundproofing, just to be sure it doesn't come off with the
wind and get tangled in the fan.
a couple washers and sheet metal screws to secure the
soundproofing, just to be sure it doesn't come off with the
wind and get tangled in the fan.
- David Dunn
- Posts: 2274
- Joined: Wed Apr 14, 2004 7:08 pm
- Location: Arcadia, CA
Re: Air Tunnel Soundproofing
Sound deadening isn’t required on the bottom of the tunnel, it isn’t in the passenger compartment, like the sides/top. And without the insulation for moisture to get trapped behind, it is suck through the tunnel
.
The Trojan Horse... the 1st Pinz used to covertly carry troops into battle .
ATL Pinzgauer XM 718K TUM(HD) 6x6 FFR (aka The Green Grail)
The Trojan Horse... the 1st Pinz used to covertly carry troops into battle .
ATL Pinzgauer XM 718K TUM(HD) 6x6 FFR (aka The Green Grail)
- McCall Pinz
- Posts: 567
- Joined: Sun Mar 11, 2007 6:01 pm
- Location: McCall, Idaho
Re: Air Tunnel Soundproofing
Good reminder...I've never gotten back around to re-installing this stuff- 1/2" thick dynaliner... got it.
eat, sleep, Pinzgauer
- eToothpaste
- Posts: 109
- Joined: Wed May 02, 2012 10:22 pm
- Location: Fruita, CO
Air Tunnel Soundproofing
I just ran across this looking for sound blocking ideas and noticed that Dyna- brand does not describe dynaliner as having any kind of sound dampening properties. It is used on top of dynamat to provide thermal insulation (though it probably does provide some sound insulation).
On second look on a different page they call it a thermoacoustic liner as it helps block lower frequency sound in combination with dynamat.
Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
On second look on a different page they call it a thermoacoustic liner as it helps block lower frequency sound in combination with dynamat.
Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
Matt
1972 710m
1972 710m
Re: Air Tunnel Soundproofing
I removed the 'insulation' in the tunnel several years ago and never reinstalled anything. I notice no appreciable sound difference with or without it. The stuff I removed was very deteriorated and just crumbled in my hand except for the layer attached to the metal. It held water and was not (to me) a good idea to keep it there.
Perhaps the 'no appreciable difference' was in effect due to the deteriorated condition of the stuff I removed which probably was not doing a proper job.
I have installed other type of sound deadening materials to other metal surfaces and it has made a difference.
Perhaps the 'no appreciable difference' was in effect due to the deteriorated condition of the stuff I removed which probably was not doing a proper job.
I have installed other type of sound deadening materials to other metal surfaces and it has made a difference.
Any man who thinks he can be happy and prosperous by letting the government take care of him:
better take a closer look at the American Indian.---Henry Ford
better take a closer look at the American Indian.---Henry Ford
Re: Air Tunnel Soundproofing
Has anyone tried a product called FatMat? Comes in 50 and 80 mil thickness and is supposed to tolerate hot areas and kill sound.