THE PORTAL HUB - Pinzgauers, Haflingers, Volvo 303s and more!

I'm going to take it on a drive tomorrow and see how it does now that I've remedied a few of the issues. I'm guessing it should be fine since I never have had any trouble at all in the past.

A great solution for the tunnel and most everywhere in the pinz is Second Skin Audio products "spectrum". with a gallon of it and the $20 spray gun they sell you can apply a couple coats then follow it up with an epoxy paint layer. I did this on my old K, and was very impressed. Insulation and noise reduction in one.
website.
http://store.secondskinaudio.com/

Apply it throughout the truck and you can actually hold a conversation without yelling at 55 mph.





on my "normal" restos I apply a POR 15 coat, a Spectrum coat, then a Sherwin Williams Iron Clad Epoxy coat. Then under all door cards, carpets, headliner, ect I then apply Damplifier and Overkill.
It turns a loud rattley old cold vehicle into a quiet warm and solid one.

while I have never used TermalBlock it looks like a great option
http://store.secondskinaudio.com/thermal-block/

Disclaimer:
I have no affiliation with this company just a consumer of their products

A little off topic but Shawn, you mentioned POR15.
I know a lot of Mog users apply to bare metal frames but I have also read that if you go to bare metal it can sometimes not stick and just peal in massive chunks.
How do you apply it and what has your experience been with it (assume good or you would not keep using it!)?
Thanks - thinking of applying to bare metal of Hafi tub.
Dan

Dan,
I've tried just about every special rust coating, and had poor luck with por 15. It requires special prep products which I carefully used, and still had the peeling you mentioned. In addition, it requires a special top coating for regular paint to stick to. I've had much better luck with Rust Bullet, and Eastwood products, as well as KBS coatings.
Good luck

Well that is the type of comment that worries me!
Since I am down to clean bare metal I think I will just prime and paint like a normal car vs POR15, sanding, topcoat etc

+1 for rust bullet!

Had very good results using Evaporust to eliminate bad surface rust on the tank and side panels of a Norton Commando i'm restoring.

The previous owner had sanded the parts down than allowed them to sit for over ten years. Evaporust than an etching primer and all is good.

I'll vouch for Evaporust, that stuff is amazing. I love that stuff; it works amazingly well and leaves your parts clean and bright, without as much of a tendency to form the black phosphate coating like the acid based rust dissolvers. I always keep a couple gallons in my shop, ready for any new project. I learned about it on this forum actually, more than a year ago.

Having used rust bullet, POR-15, Eastwoods rust converter amongst others, I have found that I get great results from POR-15 if the metal is clean, has an etch (chemical or sandblast) and a top coat is applied afterwards.
All rust converter paints I have used create a glass like shell over the metal, and is a subject to cracking. By applying a top coat to them it protects the converter paint from chipping. Polamide based or Amidoamine based Epoxies are far superior to any other paints I have found for this. Most industrial paint suppliers can provide you with these types.
I am not saying the other products out there are not good, just saying I have had excellent results with POR 15.

+1 for POR-15. It's the only stuff we use at my shop for stabilizing rusted areas. We reduce and spray it, then top coat it like any other repair with an epoxy primer and Envirobase or Imron. The primer is key, since the POR-15 is UV unstable and fails if exposed to sunlight, even indirect. I've seen frames brushed with POR-15 just blanch and peel in months.