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I removed the speedo to try to repair the odometer, but got stuck with removing the plastic lens. I used a hair drier with no luck, then graduated to a heat gun on low, but still no luck budging the lens. I ran a box cutter blade around the edge of the lens but it is still stuck in the housing. I got the housing very warm to try to loosen the glue, but don't want to go too far and melt the lens. If the sealant has hardened with time is there any hope of removing the lens to repair the odometer? I appreciate any suggestions.

So the metal ring is off and your trying to get the clear plastic lens off?
I would stay away from a heat gun and stick with the hair drier.
Try some nail polish remover (but test a tiny spot on plastic lens to make sure it does not etch it first). That should help dissolve some of the glue.

I use a heat gun, but very low. I would not try any solvent, as the lens is plastic. Keep up your work with the heat, and get some small jewelers screwdrivers or such and carefully pry the lens straight out, working around the lens slowly. It's probably the most difficult and time consuming part of the repair. The sealant does not seem to get hard, it's just tenacious.

pm me if you want a phone number to discuss it.

Paul

Yes, the metal ring is off and I am left with the clear (cloudy yellow, really) lens. I was worried about the overlay on the lens, so I pointed the heat gun at the speedo body where the lens rests and not the lens itself. I'll give low heat another go tonight and see if I have more luck. I have some tiny jewelers screwdrivers and will try to get some purchase around the edge as I go along.

Also, if the lens absolutely won't budge I am considering taking it out in pieces and replacing with another lens. Does someone out there make a replica speedo lens overlay so it looks authentic?

Hair dryer works, but you need to do some prying. The face is sitting on a rubber gasket and seated on some black tar like stuff. It is deceiving how deep the edges are too. You do need to pry it out, the heat just makes it slightly easier.

John,

I'd recommend against breaking the lens out. It would still be a pia getting the pieces out, imho. But more importantly, I have no idea where you'd find a replacement.

I've buffed them out with a headlight buffing kit from NAPA. If you have MPH markings or similar on the lens, it may well remove them. But it worked well.

Yes to heating the case sides, not the lens itself.

If you find a source for the lens and or the bezel please post it, I have tried and failed to locate a source for new replacements for these.
For a solvent you may try soaking in lighter fluid, as always test first however its usually safe on plastics and painted parts.

As has been mentioned often you must pry the lens out, be patient and keep moving around the lens using a small screwdriver to try to lift the lens. You will end up with some small pry marks on the edge of the lens however these should polish out.

Good luck and take it slow and easy the lens removal is a pain however with patience you should succeed.

You will end up with some small pry marks on the edge of the lens however these should polish out.

Even if you get some scratches and/or nicks on the outer edge of the lens bezel, they will likely be covered by the metal ring. I'd check prior to trying to remove them.

Contact Ryan at Orange Empire Speedmeter in Corna CA. Sorry no phone number on me.
I used him for the lens replacement on my old K.
He also has done full instrument restorations for me in the past.

After a few heating and cooling cycles with the heat gun, and some gentle prying with tiny screwdrivers, the lens finally came out. I discovered the pot metal gear had become loosened from the shaft, so based on the instructions of a previous post I scuffed the shaft and gently squeezed the gear hub. Worked like a treat. This allowed me to discover that the odometer advance gears were not meshing properly and jamming. Fiddled with this for a while and it appears the teeth of some of the advance gears are not fully in alignment which is causing the binding. I found a speedometer repair shop on my coast that works on foreign mechanical speedos. I'll report on their work in a few weeks.

The original "military style" bezel was almost impossible to find when I was looking many years ago, but a standard VDO bezel (in chrome or black) and glass will fit and are readily available from instrument repairers or via the net.

I wanted to follow up on the speedometer repair. I sent it to Powl's Speedometer in Lancaster, PA, and they fixed and returned it within a week. Works just fine now.

Do they repair them for a flat fee, or is it T & M?

How much was yours?

Thanks

They charged $200 for the repair which included calibration and replacement of the odometer cog gear set. Charges are based on what needs to be done. I told them that I could get a new speedo if necessary so not to do the work if it went over $250, and they understood and said they'd call if it looked like an expensive repair.