Electric 1972 Pinzgauer 710M Build Thread

[Haf-e]

I think it will only be silent when it is stopped - check out the video of the "elektro haflinger" on youtube:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wL-YHS50q64

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=X_UPfFwg-q4

With 8 gearboxes spinning all the time in a 710 (or 11 on a 712) there is still going to be a lot of noise.

[EV West]

GenevaPinz - Yes, we are all petrol heads here, but the torque from an electric motor is in a class by itself. We got into this by building a 1000hp Pikes Peak race car, and after that moment we knew what an advantage the torque is. When I watch Pinz videos on Youtube, it seems like they will crawl up anything until they run out of torque and stall. I don't think we'll have that problem.

Regarding the sound issue. Just bring your Pinz up to 60 on the freeway and kill the motor. There you go, instant EV noises. The video that Haf-e posted is great, but it's worth noting that video cameras have auto audio levels, and even though it sounds a little noisy, you can actually hear twigs breaking and other soft noises. The camera might be compensating the audio level a bit. That being said, EVs are not completely silent.

The Pinz went to my buddy's shop (Strategic Racing Designs in Vista) to get the cage and winch installed. Meanwhile, I'm working on rebuilding the hydraulics and differentials. Any newb advice is welcome. Especially on the diff, as the hydraulics are pretty straight forward. When we received the vehicle all of the locker masters were completely frozen. We've freed them all up but one. It's always that last one!

Someone mentioned cleaning it up. Yes, it's going out for paint once all the welding is done. (We have some cab stuff to weld for the seats). The color we've chosen is from 1966, and it's Porsche L6601, basically a darkish military grey, but more famously known for the color of Steve McQueen's 1967 Porsche 911.

One part that we are looking for that is kind of an odd one is the shift linkage tube. Somehow the previous owner managed to really bend this one up. If anyone knows of a source for the shift linkage tube, please let us know.

[4x4Pinz]

SAV has them. I bought one some years ago as the second generation had an added gusset to keep the tube from breaking or bending at one of the bends.
7101242302/30
http://www.pinzgauer.com/showdetails.ph ... 1242302/30

[EV West]

4x4Pinz- Thanks, happy they stock the part. Didn't know that.

Dropped the Pinz off this morning at Strategic Racing Designs in Vista to get the cage and winch installed. They just prepped 2 trucks for the Baja 1000 that each won their class, and I'm happy they are taking on the Pinz project.

We'll separate the body and driveline so while the cage is getting fabricated the driveline can be rebuilt. Sounded like a good idea at the time anyway.

While the Pinz is out of our shop for the time being, all the small stuff got a refresh so everything will be ready for the body when it comes back from paint. Great to see a bunch of old crusty stuff come back to life. Later this week we'll scan the transmission and work on the adapter plate files for mounting the electric motors.

[stiffler4444]

I'm so excited to follow this build. Like a kid in a candy store, actually!

[Jimm391730]

Interesting that your brake and clutch pedals do not have the characteristic "ramp" underneath that helps to prevent your foot from getting stuck under the pedal; I thought all Pinzi's had these. Perhaps yours were removed sometime previously.

Having built a few electric motorcycles (and may be re-doing one with more modern systems) and done an AC car conversion, how are you "scanning" the transmission for the adapter? I'm curious. I may have to come down sometime and see your shop in person.

[EV West]

Jimm,

Feel free to visit our shop anytime. Regarding the scanning, we use a Faro Arm CMM. We did a little video of the process here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uUfKGqT ... e&t=48m16s

[GadgetPhreak]

Very cool. Definitely interested in seeing how this turns out.


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[EV West]

While the body is getting it's cage welded on, we got the chassis back to the shop to break down and look for any worn parts needing attention. Lot's of clean up from neglect and surface rust, but the internals are looking real good so far.

We are going to remove the torsion bar from the driveshaft, as we'll need to do everything we can to quiet up the driveline.

[TechMOGogy]

May as well balance the drive shaft now that all is apart!

[EV West]

The chassis is slowly getting back together. In the meantime we got a custom 200mm 10 spline ceramic clutch so we can use our lightweight aluminum flywheel and a Kennedy Stage3 pressure plate. We've run different combinations, but this one gives clamping pressure to 300 ft/lb in a small, lightweight package, and cost less than replacing the original equipment. Below is a picture of the clutch and flywheel. The pilot bearing will be pressed into the flywheel.

[EV West]

Since we will be using a speed sensitive power steering unit, we needed an electronic speed signal. We adapted a Dakota Digital speedo sending unit by putting an 18x1.5 nut on the end of it so that it would attach to the cable mount. The sender will drive our speedometer as well as feed the PS unit speed information. The Dakota Digital sender can be found for less than $30, and this one was initially for a GM vehicle.

[TechMOGogy]

I love the little details on these vehicles... like that cast PUCH logo!
Neat solution for the Dakota
What power steering are you going with... custom or an EZ kit?

[EV West]

Got the drive shaft modified, so I took a picture of the welds. I'm going to swing it by a buddy's shop to see if he can balance it on his crank balancer since we don't have the u-joint jig to do it on a driveshaft balancer.

On the cage mounts, we decided not to use the M6 nutserts on the side of the body, as there were numerous, and the M6 is a bit small for an exocage mounting, so we ended up using a larger bolt size, and less of them to give a cleaner look.

[EV West]

Got most of the heavy grease washed off the transmission, making it clean enough to scan with the Faro Arm. Now that we have the transmission pattern in SolidWorks, we can begin the design of the transmission adapter, and dual motor mounts. It looks like we'll be able to mount the whole driveline to the chassis before setting the body back on. More on that soon....