I hated installing the flex coupler, so heres some tips
Posted: Tue Aug 16, 2016 6:55 pm
You can, and should, if possible, install with the headers on. I did not, and had to deal with broken studs, torquing, retorquing, thin gaskets, and finally getting it to work.
Tools you will need:
3" cutting disk and sawzall with metal blade. Use these to cut off the factory bolts holding the header to the heat exchanger. What? Your truck is so fantastic that you simply unscrewed yours? go to hell! Mine were rusted solid! Its easier and faster to use the sawzall on the outside 4 bolts. I used the 3" disk to cut the heads off the center 2. I also used the 3" disc to cut out the holes in the center, creating a U on the heat exchanger middle holes. There was NO WAY that the factory bolts were coming out as they were wedged down in there. The U allows them to slide out laterally
1/2" or 13 mm wrenches, sockets and extensions. I'd suggest using an old worn out 13mm on the header nuts if you do decide to take them off. The rust and corrosion make it a challenge with getting a good socket onto the nut.
A mallet and ball joint splitter (to knock off the rings). They are just pressed on, and will slide off the end with a few good knocks of a mallet. It was easier with the fork splitter. I wish i would have known this before removing the manifolds
A great buzzwheel! You will need to remove enough material on the ends of the header so that the flex hose easily slides on and rotates. I removed enough material so that they went on with some pounding, later realizing that i did not have enough adjustment to get the inside headers attached. I had to remove everything and pound the flex coupler off, buzz down the pipe even further, and finally was able to easily slide it on/off and rotate. Please, for the love of god, remove enough material so they slide on easy....
A couple bolts that are shorter than the 6 they give you. Its easy to get the 4 outside bolts back on as you line it up, but the middle two are a little touchy. I reversed the direction of the middle bolts to make life easier. You'll see what i mean when you do it
If you do remove the headers, try to remember which bolt came off of where, as you will most likely remove the whole stud, and not just the nut. I ran into an issue where two gaskets would not compress due to the stud/corrosion welded nut combo not going into the head far enough to tighten. I used a washers as a spacer and it finally seated properly. We will see if the washers effect the torque.
Good luck. I probably spent 7 hours F-ing around with this. I purchased an acetylene torch (I needed an excuse) as a method to remove the broken studs. It didnt work... So i purchased a welder =). That worked well! I believe i spent about $1200 to remove two broken studs.
Ok fine... i wanted torches and a welder
Tools you will need:
3" cutting disk and sawzall with metal blade. Use these to cut off the factory bolts holding the header to the heat exchanger. What? Your truck is so fantastic that you simply unscrewed yours? go to hell! Mine were rusted solid! Its easier and faster to use the sawzall on the outside 4 bolts. I used the 3" disk to cut the heads off the center 2. I also used the 3" disc to cut out the holes in the center, creating a U on the heat exchanger middle holes. There was NO WAY that the factory bolts were coming out as they were wedged down in there. The U allows them to slide out laterally
1/2" or 13 mm wrenches, sockets and extensions. I'd suggest using an old worn out 13mm on the header nuts if you do decide to take them off. The rust and corrosion make it a challenge with getting a good socket onto the nut.
A mallet and ball joint splitter (to knock off the rings). They are just pressed on, and will slide off the end with a few good knocks of a mallet. It was easier with the fork splitter. I wish i would have known this before removing the manifolds
A great buzzwheel! You will need to remove enough material on the ends of the header so that the flex hose easily slides on and rotates. I removed enough material so that they went on with some pounding, later realizing that i did not have enough adjustment to get the inside headers attached. I had to remove everything and pound the flex coupler off, buzz down the pipe even further, and finally was able to easily slide it on/off and rotate. Please, for the love of god, remove enough material so they slide on easy....
A couple bolts that are shorter than the 6 they give you. Its easy to get the 4 outside bolts back on as you line it up, but the middle two are a little touchy. I reversed the direction of the middle bolts to make life easier. You'll see what i mean when you do it
If you do remove the headers, try to remember which bolt came off of where, as you will most likely remove the whole stud, and not just the nut. I ran into an issue where two gaskets would not compress due to the stud/corrosion welded nut combo not going into the head far enough to tighten. I used a washers as a spacer and it finally seated properly. We will see if the washers effect the torque.
Good luck. I probably spent 7 hours F-ing around with this. I purchased an acetylene torch (I needed an excuse) as a method to remove the broken studs. It didnt work... So i purchased a welder =). That worked well! I believe i spent about $1200 to remove two broken studs.
Ok fine... i wanted torches and a welder