Weld D loops for towing?

[audiocontr]

Caffeinated idea - Would it be possible to weld 4 heavy duty D loops onto portions of the center spine (forget the official term) of the Pinz? Maybe onto the Witch's hat and somewhere in the rear? This way i could quickly hook to, and strap the Pinz down on the trailer. while maintaining compression on the springs?

I've historically used the triangles where the body mounts are secured, but noticed buckling and a crack from my last trip.

[David Dunn]

Use the outriggers, they have nice cutouts for chains or J hooks

[audiocontr]

Dave, can you point me to a picture of the outrigger? I think we may be talking about the same thing.

The photo attached is when i slid the tie down through. Learned my lesson on that one and started using the hook. It has since split the sheet metal and compressed the two sides towards each other. Its an easy fix at the moment, but i dont want to continue causing damage.

[David Dunn]

You wrapped the strap through it.... but the angle is too steep and no sheave to protect the strap from fraying. Somewhere in this forum are pics of the Pink Cow tied down on my trailer.... someone just need to go find them.... think it's in one of your threads when you had a "oops". Geometry of angles reduce the amount of tension needed to compress the springs enough to hold the load tight.

[audiocontr]

Yup, i recall the post. Its the angles that are my issue. My tie downs are too far to the front and rear of the trailer. Looks like the solution is to weld a couple more D loops on the trailer and not the Pinzs. I'll have to experiment a little as i tow both a 710 and 712.

Thanks Dave.

One other question - How much of an angle would you recommend? I'm guessing that directly below is not the ideal solution?

[David Dunn]

Directly below is the worse possible location ...
not having a Pinz in front of me at the moment , off the top of my head, once you have the Pinz set on the trailer for the correct weight balance, I would attach the trailer end of a tiedown approx 48" to 60" to the front of the front outrigger, and the same on the back to the rear. You won't be compressing the springs as much as locking the chassis from moving fore and aft as you speed up and brake. That dimension is assumming the Pinz outrigger cutout is 16 to 18" off the floor of the trailer. You can go longer, but the closer you get to a straight down, you need a lot of tension to keep the Pinz still, and you'd probably start benting things, if not break them altogether

[fesm_ndt]

Dave, not sure if your TD has but the later TD's have a loop welded under the bolts that mount to the body.

they serve 2 purposes. One to tie down and two for slinging under helicopters. When really serious they notch the wooden rails...

I think I got a piccy..... would that be possible on a gasser?

[David Dunn]

Gee Mike... you ventured out of the sanity of the TD section.
If mine had those loops, you'd be assured I would have used them. The earlier TDs and the gassers have stamped/formed outriggers, and I hook through the cutouts.

Dave

[fesm_ndt]

Gee Mike... you ventured out of the sanity of the TD section.
If mine had those loops, you'd be assured I would have used them. The earlier TDs and the gassers have stamped/formed outriggers, and I hook through the cutouts.

Dave

not often....... I peek in from time to time

I heard these tiedowns were mainly P93 but as the P90's are so late here we got on them also

[fesm_ndt]

I haven't been able to access my webpage for a week as the local internet refused to open it

Anyway a side piccy of the tiedown/lifting lugs



I'd give you a set but I would not wish pulling Pinz diffs out on a good friend