CLUTCH repair: How to remove clutch-unit for repair
CLUTCH repair: How to remove clutch-unit for repair
Gents,
This article is written for non-mechanics like myself with excess details to smooth over the information-gaps that seem unsurmountable at first and other panic-questions...
BTW when I write gearbox; I mean tranny - transmission
In my case I had left my Pinz in the garage for 6 months and the clutch-plate got stuck; I got the engine running, but could not shift into any gears.
Reason: the clutch-plate is 'stuck' / rusted onto either the flywheel or the pressure-plate. Probably through excess moisture in the air when parking the truck.
Look up the Internet how dry clutches work and where the flywheel is (on the crankshaft) and the pressure-plate (bolted on the flywheel), the clutch-plate is inbetween
If it is stuck lightly; With the engine OFF, put her in 1st gear, better in 4th gear as more power is exerted, and make sure there is plenty space ahead of the truck and then just start the truck. It will jerk forward as the startmotor just 'runs' the truck and almost always now the engine catches on and you drive the Pinz on the engine, push the clutch-pedal in several times and the clutch-plate might get loose and you can now shift gears. If not, then it is stuck hard...
Here are several posts on it:
http://www.real4x4forums.com/PinzgauerB ... 13&t=10780
viewtopic.php?f=13&t=8783&hilit=stuck+clutch
viewtopic.php?f=13&t=5902&p=43952&hilit ... tch#p43952
If it is stuck hard and driving over bumps and hard breaking (with clutch pushed in) does not help; you need remove the cardan-shaft, gear-box and clutch-bellhousing to get to the clutch-assembly and 'free' the clutch-plate from either the flywheel or the pressure-plate. It seemed a big job, but it is really simple and managed to do this by myself and my mechanical experience with cars was zero, I have never even taken a bicycle apart.
What you need is:
- One Clutch alignment tool (SAV: SAV2725 = $9.50 + postage) (I bought a plastic $6.50 GM-10 one (Ebay) and spent 30 min grinding it down so it would fit... Buy the real deal !)
- Ratched with metric 10, 13, 15, 17 and 19 size sockets and spanners that size.
- A 6 mm Allen-key
- A torque wrench, that measures as low as 20 Nm, you need 22-25 Nm, although I believe you can maybe judge the strength required
- 2 ft strong electrical wire
- One strong strap with rachet
- One regular jack, two is better and easier and need one less jack-stand...
- Two Jack-stands: the type where you adjust to a set height and the ratchet keeps it there (see photo)
- Several blocks of wood - prevent Pinz from rolling and 'match' differences in height when jacking up and down
- Plastic sheet (oil drips/spils) and something comfortable to lay on and a head support (big block of wood)
- Some small plastic trays (from take-away-chinese) to hold nuts for the different parts
Preparation:
- Park the Pinz where you can comfortably get at the underside of the truck.
- Apply the parking brake and put some wooden blocks behind the tires, you don't want it to go anywhere...
- Put gearbox in Free
- Lay down large plastic sheet and comfy mat (don't lay with your back on cold ground) and the tools and maybe lights for the dark spots
- Remove the gearbox-access-hatch-cover in the back of the truck
Execution:
This article is written for non-mechanics like myself with excess details to smooth over the information-gaps that seem unsurmountable at first and other panic-questions...
BTW when I write gearbox; I mean tranny - transmission
In my case I had left my Pinz in the garage for 6 months and the clutch-plate got stuck; I got the engine running, but could not shift into any gears.
Reason: the clutch-plate is 'stuck' / rusted onto either the flywheel or the pressure-plate. Probably through excess moisture in the air when parking the truck.
Look up the Internet how dry clutches work and where the flywheel is (on the crankshaft) and the pressure-plate (bolted on the flywheel), the clutch-plate is inbetween
If it is stuck lightly; With the engine OFF, put her in 1st gear, better in 4th gear as more power is exerted, and make sure there is plenty space ahead of the truck and then just start the truck. It will jerk forward as the startmotor just 'runs' the truck and almost always now the engine catches on and you drive the Pinz on the engine, push the clutch-pedal in several times and the clutch-plate might get loose and you can now shift gears. If not, then it is stuck hard...
Here are several posts on it:
http://www.real4x4forums.com/PinzgauerB ... 13&t=10780
viewtopic.php?f=13&t=8783&hilit=stuck+clutch
viewtopic.php?f=13&t=5902&p=43952&hilit ... tch#p43952
If it is stuck hard and driving over bumps and hard breaking (with clutch pushed in) does not help; you need remove the cardan-shaft, gear-box and clutch-bellhousing to get to the clutch-assembly and 'free' the clutch-plate from either the flywheel or the pressure-plate. It seemed a big job, but it is really simple and managed to do this by myself and my mechanical experience with cars was zero, I have never even taken a bicycle apart.
What you need is:
- One Clutch alignment tool (SAV: SAV2725 = $9.50 + postage) (I bought a plastic $6.50 GM-10 one (Ebay) and spent 30 min grinding it down so it would fit... Buy the real deal !)
- Ratched with metric 10, 13, 15, 17 and 19 size sockets and spanners that size.
- A 6 mm Allen-key
- A torque wrench, that measures as low as 20 Nm, you need 22-25 Nm, although I believe you can maybe judge the strength required
- 2 ft strong electrical wire
- One strong strap with rachet
- One regular jack, two is better and easier and need one less jack-stand...
- Two Jack-stands: the type where you adjust to a set height and the ratchet keeps it there (see photo)
- Several blocks of wood - prevent Pinz from rolling and 'match' differences in height when jacking up and down
- Plastic sheet (oil drips/spils) and something comfortable to lay on and a head support (big block of wood)
- Some small plastic trays (from take-away-chinese) to hold nuts for the different parts
Preparation:
- Park the Pinz where you can comfortably get at the underside of the truck.
- Apply the parking brake and put some wooden blocks behind the tires, you don't want it to go anywhere...
- Put gearbox in Free
- Lay down large plastic sheet and comfy mat (don't lay with your back on cold ground) and the tools and maybe lights for the dark spots
- Remove the gearbox-access-hatch-cover in the back of the truck
Execution:
Last edited by JNijst on Fri Aug 18, 2017 11:41 am, edited 3 times in total.
Pinz of rock - 710M / 1975 (Austrian Army)
Re: CLUTCH stuck: Cannot shift into gears while engine runs.
Pinz of rock - 710M / 1975 (Austrian Army)
Re: CLUTCH stuck: Cannot shift into gears while engine runs.
Pinz of rock - 710M / 1975 (Austrian Army)
Re: CLUTCH stuck: Cannot shift into gears while engine runs.
Pinz of rock - 710M / 1975 (Austrian Army)
Re: CLUTCH repair: How to remove clutch-unit for repair
16
Pinz of rock - 710M / 1975 (Austrian Army)
Re: CLUTCH repair: How to remove clutch-unit for repair
- Attachments
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- 24 - Put the alignment-tool in the clutch-plate-sleeve and insert both in the flywheel
- 24.JPG (185.88 KiB) Viewed 10029 times
Pinz of rock - 710M / 1975 (Austrian Army)
Re: CLUTCH repair: How to remove clutch-unit for repair
34 - Now put the 4 bolts of the gearbox-support back. in Don't overtighten like I did, I am not sure about 2 bolts, they went soft. Best use a torque-wrench not sure about how many Nm to apply...
35 - After removing all and starting up the clutch, MAKE SURE there is plenty space ahead and behind the truck, just in case. At first the clutch will not give back-pressure until you put it into gear and let the clutch come up, after 1 or 2 times the pressure will be back
Good luck !!
Pinz of rock - 710M / 1975 (Austrian Army)