Axle housing removal and installation

[pinzinator]

Yesterday I had a learning experience removing the rear axle housing to replace an o-ring, boot, clean and paint the housing, and clean/paint the springs and cups.


I came up with a tool to remove the housing, which worked OK, except the front one tended to hit the forward body support and creep up the differential case. I made it out of a 3/4 turnbuckle from Fastenal, a square washer from Lowes, and tubing from an OEM shock.

The extraction tools in position, just be sure to remove the 27mm bolt in the center of the housing first, this holds everything together.
The springs come out easy, no spring compressor required, just lower the axle and remove the lower support pins with a 22 mm. I used Liquid Wrench on the brake line, lower support pins, and clamp nuts a week earlier. I used Anti-Sieze on everything except the 27 mm bolt during re-assembly.

The springs and cups before a good cleaning and paint.

Ready for re-installation. The repair manual says that basically 'installation is the opposite of removal', which sounds easy. I installed a wedge which widened the housing slightly, but getting the unit back in completely was nearly impossible, as the removal tool does not work in reverse. The o-ring at the end of the housing is about $3.
I managed to get it back together with persistance and a pry bar (NO hammering), but maybe Jim or Scott has a better method on how to accomplish this task? It was like trying to put the Genie back into the bottle!

[Lightningpinz]

Some days they fall on and some days wellll!!! Did you grease well the end of the axle shaft with moly lube. Won't help with you problem, but that area has no lube. Next did you clean all of the old loctite with emery cloth before trying to put back together? I don't see the wedge between the bolts on the drive housing. I didn't see the wedge in the pics, but it says you used it. The manual says use loctite #270. A dead blow hammer has been used to the middle of the drive hub to facilitate installation.

[pinzinator]

Yes, I did grease the splines with moly as advised by Jim in one of his posts. The shaft also looked good next to the splines, like it had not been over-torqued in the past. I heard that is where they like to snap.
I didn't notice any old Loctite, but I did clean up the inner housing until it shined and put on a thin coat of anti-seize just prior to assembly.
I took the photo before the wedge was inserted. The first half went in easy, the rest is what was difficult. The last inch seemed to take forever! Using a hammer was tempting, but I've always believed that you should not use a hammer on anything unless it is part of the normal installation proceedure. So I used the leverage principle instead.
The wheel drive unit sure is heavy, using a floor jack is essential.

[Lightningpinz]

sounds like you did it all right. As I said earlier somedays it is a cake walk and other days well. A lotta work.

[Jim LaGuardia]

Had you searched, you would find a couple posts where I instruct to use a come-along to pull the portal into place. You may also use a strong ratchet strap instead

[WolfgangK]

Hi Pinzinator,

you say '... no spring compressor required, just lower the axle and remove the lower support pins..'

If you remove the limiting strap can you lower the axle far enough to release the pressure from the spring? Don't you damage the inner seal with such an extreme angle?

Wolfgang

[pinzinator]

When I removed the limiting strap I had a jack under the brake drum. Once removed I lowered it another inch or so and that was all. I can't say whether or not that extended travel pressured any seal or not. Loosening the lower pin takes more downward pressure off of the axle housing, but it doesn't move up or down after the springs come out. I had to use a pry bar to coax the springs out, there was no hazard as the tension was 99.9% off.
Jim I could not find your post suggesting how to use a come-along. You have 600+ posts, and I could not get it narrowed down any further. I see where that method could work, it's just a matter of hooking it up in a way that you don't bend anything should the housing bind. We're talking a lot of force being potentially exerted. I will give it a try on the left axle next week.

[Erik712m]

Had you searched, you would find a couple posts where I instruct to use a come-along to pull the portal into place. You may also use a strong ratchet strap instead

http://real4x4forums.com/PinzgauerBBS/v ... le+removal

[pinzinator]

This weekend I worked on a front axle to replace a boot and the steering knuckle scraper ring. The front came apart much easier than the rear for some reason. I disconnected the steering rod by removing the 3 nuts that hold the arm in place, rather than separate the knuckle. I had to remove the lower brake shoe to do so, but overall that was faster. I use 2 floor jacks and several jack stands positioned at different points.

My home made spring compressor. Not easy to use due to tight clearances, but it worked. The bolts are Grade 8. This was installed with the spring compressed under vehicle weight, then I lowered the axle housing and tighted the nuts until the spring cleared everything. Don't try to use a Sears or other type of compressor, besides the Steyr factory unit, as you will never get the spring compressed enough to clear the pins without damaging the spring or putting yourself in extreme danger of injury. BE CAREFUL!

The spring removed. I treated it like a live bomb, with good reason.

After cleaning the spring, I painted it with flat OD camoflauge paint available at Ace hardware. I cleaned out the cups and painted them, too.

The drive unit is reading to come out. That split boot will soon be history.

The wheel drive is ready for a new scraper ring and a good cleaning. I repositioned it as to not get anything inside the housing. The oil was drained first. I lubed the splines with synthetic moly, as the spines are not lubricated in normal operation.

New scraper ring on the left vs. the old one on the right.

Everything is back together and a new brake hose was installed.

[pcolette]

Very nice! Thanks for the photos.

What kind of shocks are you using?

Paul

[pinzinator]

I bought the shocks from Expedition Imports, but I don't see them on the site anymore. Here's the company that makes them http://www.doetsch-shocks.com/ .

Before installing them, I painted the shocks with the Pinzgauer spray paint that Swiss Army Vehicles sells. Good stuff. The factory bare metal housing just wouldn't have looked right.

These are the original shocks, made by Monroe. I could not get replacements based on the number. The bushing inserts are what I used to make the extraction tool at the top of this thread.

The old shocks are good for target practice. You know you hit it right when the oil flies!

[pcolette]

I thought the shocks looked familiar. There're the same ones I'm using that I bought directly from Doetsch before Scott was carrying them. I like the idea of painting them green- think I'll do the same.

Now I finally know what to do with the 8 old shocks I've got lying around!

[norcal pinz]

this is very helpful! thanks

[Heed]

It was brought up in this thread, but can anyone advise if Expedition is still carrying the Doetsch shock?

I asked through his site a while ago, but haven't gotten a reply. I am looking to purchase some this week. If they are, I'd rather support him than go through the factory.

I know there was some talk a few months (year?) ago that Doetsch had changed the overall length. Was that accurate?

Thanks!

[pcolette]

Scott has stopped carrying the Doetsch shocks and it would be best to hear from him the reason why rather than go into it here.
I have the Doetsch HV-1 shocks and it is unlikely I will buy them again.
pm me if you'd like more info before Scott gets back to you.

Paul