THE PORTAL HUB - Pinzgauers, Haflingers, Volvo 303s and more!

I had a neighbor who wanted to strip his car for repainting; one summer he had his kids call all their friends over for a water party where he supplied them with 400 grit wet/dry sandpaper, hoses, and snacks and they had the whole car stripped to bare metal in an afternoon!

Jimm391730 wrote:I had a neighbor who wanted to strip his car for repainting; one summer he had his kids call all their friends over for a water party where he supplied them with 400 grit wet/dry sandpaper, hoses, and snacks and they had the whole car stripped to bare metal in an afternoon!

I need those kids!
3 days of cabinet blasting all small parts and today I started pressure blasting the front clip (crushed glass)
Why didn't I take it to a shop for this ?!?! I must have been crazy as this is a pain in the butt and much slower than I thought.
Hell this whole process is super slow and a pain - need to get it done so I can get my Pinz!
Gggrrrrrrr

I had my Haffy sandblasted at a local shop. The guy said it was the most difficult vehicle he had ever blasted. The Austrians obviously never intended the paint to come off!

In the cabinet I started with walnut shells - just turned to dust
Then moved to glass beads - worked wel but slowl, great finish but lots of dust and not a lot of reuse
Final was fine steel shot - worked quickly, zero dust (other than what was blasted turning to dust), endless reuse, nice finish and did not etch surface.
The body is a pain and a simple angle grinder is the best and fastest unless you have a "professional" blast environment.
I was using a 100 lb pressure blaster and a 30 gal air compressor that put out 18 cfm at 90psi - did a good job but I wanted it to go faster and less clean-up
By tomorrow I want to have every part (and body) ready for primer - not sure I will make it!!
I have completed zinc plating of all fasteners and various small parts that were not painted from the the factory. They will all get a final dip in chromate.
Have to post a few pics once I get off iPad

2 words.
Coal slag.
No dust, limited heat, and a good nozzle will provide good control.

Shiny Stuff
Made it to about 98% on the body work - just need to do a final blast of small nooks on the body and the engine bay sides - then on to primer and paint!
Plating completed on all but a handful of fasteners

Front clip looks like a Hafi/Delorean

Was finishing up some sand blasting of big parts last Sat (hunched over for about 6 hours) - stood up and POP went my back!
So... I am now nursing a very sore back and have been able to do nothing all week.
To top off the bad day - I had the front clip standing up on its side and walked away for 20 seconds - boom - it dropped onto the concrete right on the DS headlight!!
Looked ok until I started checking the upper and lower areas. Upper bent in and lower bent out - S.O.B!
Was able to bang it out easily as nothing creased but just a pain, more work and a bit discouraging
One day this thing may be ready for paint - trying to stay positive!

Sore back work

What type of paint?

Sanded knob with 600 and then 1000 wet to remove all the scratches
Then sprayed with Dover White (slight off white)
Waited for 3 days and then buffed on a wheel using Fine white plastic compound
I was amazed at the gloss

How do I remove and replace the oil seal on the steering box?

If you don't want to undo the two large nuts at the other end of the casting, then you could try drilling a couple of holes in the edge of the oil seal, then putting some self tapping screws in the holes That then gives you something to get hold of to lever the oil seal out.

Putting new one back in can be done with a suitable piece of tubing or a suitable socket - but I don't think you will find a socket with a large enough hole down the center unless you use 1 inch drive sockets! Gentle taps with a hammer all round the edge keeping it square will work. There are obviously other ways - most of which involve more equipment!

John

Couple of owners before me went wild with the yellow spray gun
Wiring fixed: check

To make it easier to be able to remove the whole front section, how about putting a multiway plug and socket on the main dash to body work section of cable?

Then rewiring the back of the dash could be done with the dash not attached to the vehicle and therefore much easier to make the "bird nest" look like a well thought out and routed wiring loom.

Just a thought....

Looks like you had fun trying to work out which yellow wire went where!

John

Mine are all the same color, too.. But it's just what's left of the Utah desert stuck to them. It wipes off a lot easier than overspray.
Nice job!