Rub Rails

[IwanaPinz]

Another FAQ.
I would like to replace the rub rails on my 712.
1. I remember seeing a blue print like drawing that gave all the proper dimensions for the rub rails.
Does anyone know where I can find those drawings?
2. What are the preferred materials in use for the rub rails?
3. Any little know secrets on replacing the rub rails?


Thanks.

Brian
1973 712M

[David Dunn]

It's in the photo section of the Pinz yahoo group under side rails.
doubt this link will work, but..
http://ph.groups.yahoo.com/group/pinzga ... w/71e8?b=1

Dimensionally: 2 1/16" across the base, 1" at the top, 1 1/14" tall. Pitch is 23 degrees ( per the drawing)

[2012]

has anyone ever used teak for rub rails? wouldn't that be nice? actually, there are cheaper woods that work maybe as well. it gets grey but it cleans up gr8.

[IwanaPinz]

Thanks Dave,
That will help.
I remember a very detailed print but again I’m not sure where I saw it.

Does any one know what wood was used to make the rub rails?

Brian
1973 712M

[JC]

I used Trex composite decking. It comes in alot of colors and does not need painting. It is also easer to work with than wood for this application.

[skybarney]

I used to have trex side rails and they were nice. Something like teak may be to hard and cause damage to the body during a "rub".

[rollingpinz]

Hello

Has anyone used a rubber or vinyl type of material? I looked at McMaster Car, but I can't find anything.

Eric P

[Lightningpinz]

I have seen Stainless steel tube, cold rolled steel u channel, square steel tubing, Oak pine, trex. It all works when cut to the right dimension. I've been told the mounting nuts in the body do vary in actual location so therefore measure all mounting holes first and then drill the mounting holes in the wood/metal rub rails for each vehicle. (I can tell you from first hand experience that several of the rails I have installed had to be tweaked MASSIVELY from the predrilled stuff the customer had bought). So fab and have fun.

[mjnims]

I chose to go against some of the purist and use schedule 40 metal pipe. I used 1" long pieces of pipe cut to mate up with the 1 1/4 rail and welded them to a 1/4 plate which bolts to the same location as the original wood rails. I then put a Tee on the rear bumperettes and tied the side rail to that. I have been hit by a ford truck on the rear bumperette in a parking lot and the ford did not fair very well. I did not even loose any paint on the rails. I have also used my rails to slide the truck off of trees and have had no ill effects from this as I was warned would happen by using metal in place of wood. I know that several owners have gone with metal rails and have not reported any ill effects. I live in AZ and have had none of the heat related problems some have expressed concerns with.
Here is a picture of the rails on the truck.

[STPPINZ]

I used 3 inch angle iron. It turned out really clean looking and it is a great spot to high lift from too the whole length of the truck.

[2012]

well it sounds like a fat chunk of stainless or powder-coated aluminum would work well, then, also!

[russ]

I've made a few sets out of manufactured wood. Mine is Trex but I have also used what they have at Home Depot. Had to take a hand rail and cut/plane to make two rails for a 710M. It is all very easy to work with. It seems to have very good strength for compressability. I made mine a bit thicker and slightly wider than the originals. The big advantage is that it doesn't grow mushrooms! One of my originals did! Here's one of its few moments clean:

[2012]

mushrooms?! rails grow mushrooms?!

[russ]

Old wood ones do.

[PinzEOD]

I like the metal u-channel. It's useful for 'pinning' in accessories like tables and racks and such. Plus they act like ice skate runners when turning against rocks and ledges in the dry washes here. I don't drive around many trees.