Starter button

[chapel]

When I push the starter button on my truck it starts right up and runs fine as long as I hold down the button. As soon as I let off the button the truck dies. I took apart the switch and cleaned it up but it still does it. Any suggestions?
Thanks
Greg

[russ]

I don't have schematics in front of me but I had thought when you hit the button to start the truck, higher voltage ran through the coil. When released it went back to normal.

[Lightningpinz]

(I don't have schematics in front of me but I had thought when you hit the button to start the truck, higher voltage ran through the coil. When released it went back to normal.)

Therefore, check the ignition switch (the start button is probably supplying the only voltage to the coil)

[scoutpinzer]

Also check the connections of the ballast-resistor(that round thingy under the dash that normally gets quite warm) as well as the resistor itself. Infact in normal operation, starter button released, the voltage drops from 24V down to approx 18 V by passing trough this resistor. Hope this helps.

[rla001]

Sorry I haven't had time to check this board for a while so you probably have this all figured out but John is correct that you get extra voltage while the starter button is pressed.

The way this works is that there are three connections on the starter button so when you press it in you get 24vdc on two output connections. One goes to the starter selonoid and the other goes back to the starter swich through a secondary set of internal switch contacts, then connects down to the ingnition wire past the balast resistor. so your problem could be a bad ignition switch, the balast resistor or the molex type connector that the balast risistor uses to connect with.

Rich A.

[chapel]

Thanks for the input. I'll get on this this weekend and post a report.
greg

[chapel]

Well I replaced the ignition switch(ouch) to no avail. so I called Dennis and they suggested it might be the rev-limiter. And through the process of elimination we isolated it down to that. The cure for me was to jump the incoming and outgoing lead together as per Linden's advice and it works perfectly. Eventually I'll probably replace the part or maybe not.
Thanks for all your help.
Greg

[lindenengineering]

Greg
Well done, nice to hear when something goes right. That rev limiter unit by the way is a pricey unit. If you intend to run the truck for an extended period sans "box" remember that you can over rev the engine in mountain conditions leading to some expensive failures.

Best of luck and I will drop you a line when I am next in Sparks at the Willis Works.
Dennis

[chapel]

I'll keep that in mind. And we'll see you soon.
Greg

[todds112]

Any pics or description of what it looks like and where it is? WOuld this also be the unit that triggers the "4500" light in dash?

[Foz]

Mine doesn't wokr [but I don't need it - have a tach, and no mountains in sight from J'ville FL]... should I remove it/wire around it?

If so how?

What wires to splice.. which to cap off?

TIA

[Jim LaGuardia]

Just unplug the box and make a jumper with 2 male spade terminals , jump the 2 center terminals.
Don't forget to resecure the harness.
I jumped mine for EFI use(I used this circuit for ignition relay).

[jgeesen]

Where it be?

[Jim LaGuardia]

It's the only black box with the 6 wire connector to the righ side of the balast resistor behind the dash mounted to the body.

[Foz]

Thanks Jim