Still missing

Oberon · Post by **Oberon** » Wed Apr 18, 2007 6:58 pm

Well, I've put in new spark plugs, newer plug wires, drained the fuel and put in some new with some drygas additive, checked the contacts on the carb wires and listened for the click with the key on, adjusted the timing, made sure that all of the nuts and bolts were tight on the carbs. After all of that, my engine is still missing at cruising speeds. I've noticed that there is still some condensation and a cream colored paste-like substance in the oil fill tube, ventilation tube from the intake to the carb, and noticed the same thing in the #4 cylinder when I changed my valve cover gaskets. The number #4 cylinder also has a vent tube. There is also some black water coming out of my exhaust. The engine doesn't backfire anymore, and it is not missing as much as it was, but its still noticeable. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated. PLEASE HELP!!!
Thanks in advance,
Spence

Oberon · Post by **Oberon** » Thu Apr 19, 2007 8:18 am

I was reading through my manual, it says that there are two gaskets between the air intake and the carbs. I removed my air intake yesterday and found that there was nothing between mine. Could this be part of my problem?

krick3tt · Post by **krick3tt** » Thu Apr 19, 2007 8:31 am

I do not have gaskets between the carbs and the intake. This was a question for me when I was learning to balance the carbs. I was told that some models do not have them.

Cheers,
Morris
73 710M

lindenengineering · Post by **lindenengineering** » Thu Apr 19, 2007 8:49 am

Oberon
Vacuum leaks are a large part of what can aile a Pinz engine.

The gasket that is found between the manifold(s) and the head joint are particularly vunerable especially if your engine is a (back splutterer) and fires up through the carbs. This positive pressure pulse can blow out a gasket(s) and create misfiring and poor running. The (inlet manfolds) runners are also prone to cracking at the flanges and cracking/detachment of casting lugs where the air filter bridge bar holding device is located. In fact on replacements the lug had been deleted.

I usually grasp the carburetor and try to rock in on the engine. Any looseness whatsover must be investigated. Also check the vacuum hose to the brake servo. It can rot out and cause a big leak giving the same symptoms. Again for a test blank off the vacuum port and attach a vacuum gauge to the diz connection. You will (should) see around 15" HG on a good running engine. You can test drive it with no servo connection but bear in mind your brakes will be less effective!
In many cases the only way to eliminate the problem or at least remove it from your line of diagnosis is tear it down and don't forget to replace/inspect the bridging balance hose found under the tin in the cooling capsule. it can rot out as well. Coming in 12 and 10 mm port size you can use Napa multi purpose hose for the replacement if its 12 mm but at 10mm sizes I use #8 A/C hose. The hose for the brake servo is 1/2 equivalent so again use red Napa multipurpose hose for that application. Don't use heater hose. It can collapse.
Dennis
Best of luck
Dennis

Oberon · Post by **Oberon** » Thu Apr 19, 2007 9:44 am

I'm getting started in adjusting the valves this morning, and there are two marks on the crankshaft pulley about 3/8 of an inch from each other. One is painted red and would come to the pointer first during engine rotation. Do I assume that this is mark for 5 degrees before TDC, which the online installation from EI(I think) for the Pertronix says to set the distributor when the crank is 5 degrees before TDC. I'm not a mechanic, so which mark do set the valves to??? and the distributor for that matter. Any ideas??

lindenengineering · Post by **lindenengineering** » Thu Apr 19, 2007 8:59 pm

Oberon I have just posted a chapter and verse on adjustment on the yahoo. Do you Yahoo?
Dennis

pinz for fun · Post by **pinz for fun** » Tue May 01, 2007 5:19 pm

Mine was missin a lot at idle and low speed I reset the points to .018 and that fixed it they were down to about .010

Twin Pinzies · Post by **Twin Pinzies** » Thu May 03, 2007 8:35 pm

All Pinzgauers miss from my experience. Throwing money at a 30 yr old, glorified tractor will not make it run like a new vehicle. Trust me, I've tried!

P.S.- I own three 710m's

hawkwind5usa · Post by **hawkwind5usa** » Thu May 10, 2007 9:22 pm

Take your idle adjust screws out and your idle solenoids off(one set at a time),then blow air(about 40 psi)into the set screw hole then blow air in the solenoid hole.This will clear any blockage in the idle mix area. My hat goes off to Jim La Guardia on this fix.I found it in the archives. My Pinz was running like it had a bad plug wire at idle.When I accelerated,the engine shook terribly and lacked top end power.Now it runs like a raped ape.I tried everything to cure it,wires,plugs,distributor cap,timing.I'm a happy camper now!