starter removal help

rla001 · Post by **rla001** » Sun Nov 11, 2007 4:13 pm

Hi All,

I was hoping someone could help me a bit with removing the starter. Mine was real doggy and now it is not working all the time. I am having trouble getting a wrench on the top mounting bolt it looks like I need to remove the clutch slave cylinder or the gas tank to get at it. I would rather remove the clutch slave cylinder if these are my options but I don't know what I would be getting myself into of I did. Any suggestions would be welcome.

Also when I get that top nut loose will I need to remove the dip stick housing in order to get the starter out or can it be finagled around it.

Thanks
Rich A.

Profpinz · Post by **Profpinz** » Sun Nov 11, 2007 4:42 pm

You have to unbolt the slave but leave all the hydraulics connected, then undo the top and bottom starter retaining nuts (leave the flexible mounting in place) ...... remove the starter from underneath the vehicle.
....and yes, you will need to move the dipstick tube!
Simply undo the nut that holds it to the thermostat housing and the top clamp and pull it upwards. There is an O ring around the crankcase ferrule that seals it.

(I just remembered about the dipstick removal and was editing my post as Jim posted

.... We won't lead you astray...Trust us!!

)

Jim LaGuardia · Post by **Jim LaGuardia** » Sun Nov 11, 2007 4:46 pm

You also need to remove the dipstick tube

PinzEOD · Post by **PinzEOD** » Sun Nov 11, 2007 5:16 pm

I pulled mine through the passenger side wheelwell access plate without having to remove the dipstick tube.

russ · Post by **russ** » Sun Nov 11, 2007 5:19 pm

I've used a crows foot to loosen the nut instead of removing the slave cylinder. Seemed easier to me. I don't know how it's possible to get out without removing the dipstick but next time I will have to look closer.

Profpinz · Post by **Profpinz** » Sun Nov 11, 2007 6:08 pm

Hmm, taking it out without removing the dipstick ... interesting!
Just goes to show there are a thousand ways to do any one job! .... now that only leaves 998 other ways to remove the starter

BTW....My 4X4 Pinny factory standard hybrid has a totally different starter than the common unit.... Still Bosch, but shorter. That unit might be easily extractable without removing the dip stick.

rla001 · Post by **rla001** » Sun Nov 11, 2007 7:30 pm

Thank you Gentleman I got it off only problem now is that it seems to work quit well off of the truck.

I will clean off the armature with my fiberglass brush and re-install checking all the ground connections.

things that make you go hmmmm

thanks again
Rich A.

Profpinz · Post by **Profpinz** » Sun Nov 11, 2007 8:02 pm

When you say yours isn't working all the time Rich, but it performs OK on the bench I'm tempted to ask.... When you try to start the motor does the starter run but it doesn't kick the motor over or is it just dead....nothing, no noise etc.
Reason I ask is that two problems that don't show up readily on the bench when the starter is not under load are:
1/. The Solenoid is playing up and under high current it isn't "relaying" full current ....Fix = replace the solenoid
2/. The Bendix is failing under load. The roller surface wears and it slips under load ... Fix = replace or repair.
The Bendix unit is factory sealed but can be rebuilt. I had mine rebuilt ONCE, but the second time it failed it needed replacing....Dennis helped me out that time as the Bendix appears to be unique to the Pinny!

Have fun putting the brake shoes back in at the back of the armature!

milesdzyn · Post by **milesdzyn** » Sun Nov 11, 2007 10:25 pm

Hmmm.....I didn't have much trouble with the brake shoes, just spun the whole unit while letting gravity drop it down, I might have wiggled it a little too.

Of course I did have to scratch my head a little to figure it out.

Miles

rla001 · Post by **rla001** » Mon Nov 12, 2007 7:12 am

Hi Peter,

The starter when it did work it turned at a much slower rpm then it used to, sounding almost like low batteries but it has fresh fully charged batteries.

More recently it would do nothing at all, no click no clunk and no spin. The dash lights would dim way down so I thought the starter was binding up.

On the bench the starter spins quite rapidly and the bendix flies right out.

Thanks
Rich A.

Jim LaGuardia · Post by **Jim LaGuardia** » Mon Nov 12, 2007 8:38 am

check the ground cut off switch and it's small cable.

MarkPinz · Post by **MarkPinz** » Mon Nov 12, 2007 1:14 pm

I had none of the other electrical problems your having. When bench tested my starter bendix gear did jump right out as it should indicating a good solenoid. upon closer inspection the Bendix gear clutch was the culprit after replacing bendix gear fired up better than ever

Profpinz · Post by **Profpinz** » Mon Nov 12, 2007 3:22 pm

G'Day Rich,

I'd check out the solenoid in detail....Don't forget, it does two things.
One it throws out the Bendix and two, it is effectively the switch for the starting current..... If you can lay your hands on another solenoid, replace it, and try that!

The other thing that it may be, is that the armature may be poleing (?)
The bearing in the middle and on the one on the Bendix end of the armature are sintered bronze and are not that keen on mud and dirt! ....the centre bearing in particular may be your problem and under load its allowing the armature to move off-line.
Things are different under load!

I'd pull it all apart, seeing you have it out, and check it out thoroughly!

rla001 · Post by **rla001** » Mon Nov 12, 2007 10:20 pm

I had some time to look at it more thoroughly tonight and it still looks in good shape to me. I was able to slide the brush end off enough to clean the armature with my fiberglass contact brush without having the brushes come completely off the armature. I did not feel any wobble in the shaft.

I was disappointed that it did not look like you can get into the solenoid to clean the contacts. I will take some resistance readings before I put it back on. Maybe I can get a voltage drop reading too while it is on the bench. That might be more pertinent.

I will also examine the battery disconnect switch to I had a little problem with it after it sat for a while. I turned it on and it did not work. I turned on and off a few times to clean the contacts and it seemed to be working after that but maybe I am loosing to much voltage there.

Thanks all for your help I appreciate it very much.
Rich A.

Jimm391730 · Post by **Jimm391730** » Mon Nov 12, 2007 10:57 pm

When my bendix started slipping, I'd get the "whir" of the starter without the "rRRr rRRr rRRr" of the engine turning over. On the bench the bendix felt strong (would turn freely one way, grabbed and twisted the starter motor the other way) so with new bushings it was reinstalled. Better, but still no joy. Out it came again, this time for a new bendix. What a difference! The bendix is not cheap, but if you are going to pull it out and "overhaul it" they I'd recommend a bendix if you get any starter noise with no engine crank.

Jim Mettler
712W and 710M