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Heat duct

Posted: Tue Mar 04, 2008 7:16 pm
by Pinz Enthusiast
Got mine at Aircraft Spruce & Specialty Co. out in Corona at the airport, Aeroduct Flexable Ducting part # 05-29912 $6.40 a foot it's called "SCAT" ducting extreme temps from -65 to 550 degrees, real nice and very solid feel to unlike the old cloth based ducting., will also be picking up some of the 1" diameter tubing for hooking up my new eberspacher I got from Vince.

Posted: Thu Mar 12, 2009 8:58 pm
by Heed
Eric,

How much length did you end up ordering from Aircraft Spruce to complete your job with the SCAT ducting?

...and just to confirm, it was the 3" diam. right?

Thanks

Posted: Thu Mar 12, 2009 9:10 pm
by Pinz Enthusiast
Bob,

I think I got like 20 feet ( more than enough to do the whole truck and then some), according to the maunal it's 75mm which works out to just under 3 inches, cost was around $90.00 or so but I also got 10 stainless steel hose clamps too. what a difference it made just doing the heat exchanger to mixer box and moxer box to heater motor, increased my temp out put by quite a bit, was driving in about 25 degrees the other day with just the cab heater running and it was quite nice.

Posted: Fri Mar 13, 2009 9:23 am
by Heed
Thanks Eric!

Right after I posted I noticed that they only came in 12 foot lengths.

I'll order some to our local airport.

Duct

Posted: Fri Mar 13, 2009 11:15 pm
by chacaocop1
Hi Eric:

According to the specs in one online suplier: "For use in conducting extremely cold or hot air where temperatures range from -65°F to +550°F."

Can I assume that this duct will not dissipate heat through the walls, and doesn't need external insulation tape or so?

Thanks.

Posted: Fri Mar 13, 2009 11:46 pm
by EvanH
One thing I am planning to do with the 712 is to paint the external surfaces of the exhaust manifold with Por-15 "Black Velvet." It sounds like a great chocolate cake or sexy lingerie, but in fact it is a high-temperature heat resistant paint.

http://www.por15.com/BLACK-VELVET/productinfo/BVG/

Over the paint I plan to use an insulating wrap similar to (hope this link works - it is longer than most of my marriages):

http://www.jcwhitney.com/autoparts/Prod ... HAUST+WRAP

Between the two, I'm expecting longer life from the headers and more heat delivered to the heat exchanger as well as the usual promises of better horsepower, more torque and fewer wrinkles.

*** SAFETY ALERT ***

For the newer members, at least one individual has posted in the past that his heat exchanger developed a leak between the through-pipes and the air exchanger. This routed exhaust gasses into the passenger compartment. My humble advice is to verify the integrity of your heat exchanger before you trust it in a sealed up cab. For me, I don't find myself supporting the Republican party, so I'm pretty sure I'm not suffering from toxic fume poisoning or too much brain damage.

-Evan

Ceramic coating

Posted: Sat Mar 14, 2009 12:41 am
by chacaocop1
Hi Evan:

I thought you may want to consider ceramic coating your exhaust manifold.

My two cents....

Check this link I googled for you.

http://www.performancecoatings.com/index2.html

It kind of explains how is done and what are the advantages. It will cost you a little bit more, but it will protect it externally AND internally.

My two cents for you...

Posted: Sat Mar 14, 2009 12:50 am
by chacaocop1
Here is another one since you look like a "do it yourself" kind of guy....

http://www.eastwoodco.com/shopping/sear ... st_coating

Posted: Sat Mar 14, 2009 8:39 am
by Foz
...I assume that this duct will not dissipate heat through the walls...
Naaa... assume instead that the duct will not fail if used in an environment within the listed heat range. Flex metal duct would stand the high temperature, but would radiate heat freely [lose heat on the way back to the cab].

Best choice is probably to cut flex duct to fit and then wrap in an appropriate insulation layer prior to fitment [or find an all-in-one abrasion resistant insulated duct product].

====

I have a k-type with both heat systems and can tell you from personal experience that trying to get by with a non-functional xchanger system is a bad idea.

It is fairly cheap and easy to get the system in proper order provided the xchanger is sound [and still installed].

Regardless of local climate the xchanger system, if working properly, will add significant heat to the cab AND defrost your windshield.

Whether local climate requires an auxiliary heater on top of the xchanger system is a different question.

If you do need more protection from the cold, I suggest you start with insulation [insualte so the duct work coming from the xchanger to the cab holds heat, and also insulate and weather seal the cab itself]. Then if it makes sense for your uses, consider something inexpensive and simple like seat warmers [nothing like a warm ass to help chase a chill].

But if you need a real aux. heat system because it gets minus 10f in your locale, or because you sleep in the truck, then a fuel based unit is the premium solution IMO. As stated above, my truck came with an Eberspracher and its output is amazing.

If you have no aux. heater and really need one then the fuel based systems like the one Denis sells seem to me to be the optimal solution. Such units cost a lot more than an aircraft heater or propane units but they have higher BTU output, will run all night, and do not strain the battery/charging system. They are also probably safer if installed correctly.

The 24v aircraft heater is the rational solution for some folks due to how they use the truck. But has some limitations [can't run it all night]. The propane units would scare me in an off-road vehicle application - but maybe that's just me.

my $ 0.02

Posted: Sat Mar 14, 2009 6:44 pm
by chacaocop1
Thanks for the clarification Foz.