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MASSIVE PINZ wrote: This throttle body size worked very well in my truck and Herber's Pickle uses the same one and I think Alan will agree that it drives exceptionally well..

I can't remember what we started with, but early on we went down to the current 47mm. (Operating from memory) Still a bit oversized on Herbert's 2.7l, but quite usable. More noticeable on a stock 2.5l. Just causes you to reach WOT early. Herbert likes his, but he has two speeds: Idle & WOT

In any case, better to start slightly large and work down than the opposite. I imagine your high revver beetles really like the airflow!

Alan

I didn't now you could change the wheel on the throttle body? So I should be able to reverse my pivot (longer end on pedal side) and find a bigger wheel. To get smoother pedal response?

But sounds like you are making progress every day! Will you be bringing to Atlanta? (If they schedule a Steel soldiers rally)

Should be there. Hope fully it will be done. Trying to come up with a bunk bed set up in the back so the kids can come to.

There are only two speeds in my world as well and they parallel Herbert's.

I drive hard as well... My main goal was to increase cruise speeds on the road and make more drive-ability with adding hill climbing ability on the road.

Off road it worked extremely well no matter what throttle body was used. The low gearing of the Pinz makes most of the changes so unimportant that they cannot be measured.

BTW- If I was turboing it I'd just go straight to an 8 injector arrangement using a 75mm Mustang throttle body and crank up the boost.

Played around with the lengths of the bell-crank and throttle arm Did make a huge difference. Is there I calculation I can use to get in the ballpark of what length I need them to be?

1) Measure the length of travel of the "input", the rod from the pedal.

2) Measure the linear travel needed to go from idle to WOT on the "output", the rod from the bellcrank to the throttle body.

Ideally the pedal throw will be slightly larger than that required by the throttle body. If so, you'd be 1:1. We are 1:1 on our systems.

If it's not equal, you scale the length of your bellcrank arms to the Ratio of the two travel numbers. It's not quite that simple, but you'd be in the ballpark. (The ends of the bellcranks actually move in an arc)

You'll have to decide if you want to the pedal to be able to hit the floor without putting pressure on the throttle body, etc. Or work in a spring overload on either the closed or open position.

Or just send Herbert $200 and he'll ship you one thats already setup. (Don't know what he'd charge, but probably in the ballpark)

Bellcranks/rod systems have slightly lower resistance, but more complexity/slop. Cables are the opposite. Judgement call.

Have fun,

Alan

Alan, Hi Jakes system came with the cable. The shop here used the bellcrank as the could never see 0 to 60 mm on the computer or even looking at the throttle body. Today I used c-clamps to change lengths on the two bellcranks and one throttle. Making the pedal bigger the bellcrank throttle side smaller and throttle body lever longer. By the way my throttle body lever will not come off it's pressed on. I never could see full movement. But I went over to the mall parking and played around on the curbing. I could do smooth transitions with no jerking 500 rpm to 1000 rpm easy. Pretty good. I'm sure I was never 1:1 to be able to move in such small increments with such little movement in the peddle.

How can they have more slop if it's a solid rod? You would think it would have better pull and release.