broken engine mount studs...

Protoman333 · Post by **Protoman333** » Fri Sep 15, 2006 9:27 am

Best i can tell, i have a serious problem. Ive noticed that the throttle on my 710m has become more and more sensitive. I initially attributed this to some form of carb issue (mainly because I don’t know what the he!! im doing), but as it got worse and worse I realized that this really couldn’t be the case. Barely give it throttle and it just takes off, giving itself more and more fuel. The shifter seemed to move with this action which clued me in. Diagnosis (which may be obvious to those more mechanically inclined, of which I am not) was a broken motor/engine mount. Got under there last night, verified this, and found the culprit. The lower/rear mount was not broken at all, but 2 of the 4 studs that hold it there are sheared, and of the 2 studs remaining, only one had a nut on it and even it was backed off ½ inch or so. “Well poo poo” I said. Ok, so I didn’t use the term poo poo. I had many, many more creative words that the neighbors probably heard. Man, im really not a very good neighbor.

How in the he!! am I supposed to fix this?! Most of the time I wander through life in a borderline retarded state…im simply not capable of making this repair, nor do I have the equipment to do so. Even if I could get to the 2 that are broke, id still have to “remove” whats left of the studs. Does anyone know if they are pressed, threaded, or cast? And to do this, youd have to remove the engine, correct? And the beauty is that I still don’t see how the d@mn thing could be bolted back in properly. How in the heck would you even get to the “front” 2 studs to secure the nuts?!!! Ive seen pics of people removing the engine through the drivers door, but other than a special tool with at least 2 u-joints, I simply cant imagine how one would get to the nuts. Does anyone know???

Jim LaGuardia · Post by **Jim LaGuardia** » Fri Sep 15, 2006 9:56 am

Ok here is a way to begin, pull the engine cover, take the cap off of the antena mount on the cab, then support the engine with a come along .
Remove the mount bracket, and then drill out the broken studs or mig weld a nut to each broken stud and use a wrench to remove the remains

you can then replace the studs or use bolts.

Protoman333 · Post by **Protoman333** » Fri Sep 15, 2006 12:56 pm

you see, that right there is why this board kicks @ss! thats a great idea, jim, and i think even my bank account can handle the purchase of a come along. i should already have one to begin with!

i just have one more question for you jim, how on earth do you ever get to the "front" 2 nuts on that lower/rear motor mount?! if i remember correctly, you are a mechanic (or at least a really good shade tree mechanic) and i believe youve been recommended a few times as an engine guy, have you ever removed the engine? i could barely get my hands in there to feel if there was any stud left, much get my hands in there with a spanner. it it really a matter of having a socket with an extention and a couple of those u-joint things or is there some access point that im missing?

Jim LaGuardia · Post by **Jim LaGuardia** » Fri Sep 15, 2006 7:12 pm

When you unbolt the mount from the lower crossmember and lift the engine an inch, all will be revealed

It is wise to loosen the other mount bolt(or remove it) to prevent over stress when lifting the engine

Denis told me about the come a long method a couple years back, the roll bar makes for a great built in engine support

And yes I am a very seasoned tech.

Kiwibru · Post by **Kiwibru** » Wed Sep 20, 2006 5:45 pm

Jeez, Now I gotta go look at my engine mounts! I have a very touchy throttle that I was attributing to the timing and the distributor as the carbs we just adjusted! Here is my mantra that this not so...PleaseNo. Great info. if this is the curse.

Protoman333 · Post by **Protoman333** » Fri Sep 22, 2006 12:56 pm

better late than never...man, its getting harder and harder to find time to get to the internet!

thanks again Jim, you input is seriously appreciated by me and everyone on this board! experienced just means that you know all of the short cuts by learning them the hard way, right?!

and yeah, kiwibru, check 'em out. it you just barely touch the throttle and the d*mn thing takes off (especially in 1st & 2nd high), you may just have the same problem. hopefully, not to the extent i have!

thanks again, all...

mjnims · Post by **mjnims** » Fri Sep 22, 2006 4:28 pm

My motor mount was broken and did not even know it. I did not get the classic thud between shifts and the engine did not seem to move around while under a load. I really did not notice it until I put on the engine/oil pan skid plate from CWR. When I told Patrick the skid plate was rubbing he told me I had a broken motor mount and sure enough that was the case. Changed both mounts in just a few minutes and all is well. Changing the mounts sure took out some of the vibrations that the truck had at highway speeds.

M Wehrman · Post by **M Wehrman** » Fri Sep 22, 2006 11:17 pm

I can't imagine how you could have broken a mount.........

. Mark

mjnims · Post by **mjnims** » Sat Sep 23, 2006 12:33 am

Mark
It is the high output engine turning the tires and leaving the black trails on the driving surfaces that broke the mounts in the Pinz, either that or just plain old age.

Kiwibru · Post by **Kiwibru** » Sat Sep 23, 2006 2:59 pm

Well I checked mine and they look fine...that was a relief!