Arrrgh, wheel seal needs replaced, help (ADDED MORE PICS)
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Arrrgh, wheel seal needs replaced, help (ADDED MORE PICS)
When it rains it pours. While adjusting the breaks today I noticed the tell tale leak through the weep hole on one of the rear wheel assemblies. It was fine last week. Pulled the drum and it's pretty ugly in there.
So who has a copy the "how to" that was on SDP-Pinzgauer?
I REALLY hope she's not at that age where everything that can go wrong does.
So who has a copy the "how to" that was on SDP-Pinzgauer?
I REALLY hope she's not at that age where everything that can go wrong does.
Last edited by todds112 on Sat Sep 27, 2008 8:21 pm, edited 1 time in total.
1973 712M
Todd, It's not that hard to replace the seals i've done all six. http://www.expeditionimports.zoovy.com/ ... tallation/ on step nine I went to auto zone. They let you use the tools for free, use the oem A/C clutch puller. The bad news is there are two sizes of seal's one is 60-78-8 the other 60-78-10. On the fourth pic scott has post I used a rubber mallet on the shaft in the middle. When I had my mechanic replace two, he used a press to remove it. Just hope the bearings aren't lock tyted (the red stuff) on the shaft. i've been told some times the swiss used it on them. seals are cheap $11.95 I think.
That has happened to me. Use the a/c puller it fits the gear better, also locks in place. if that doesn't work you may have to use some heat on that bearing race.
Last edited by Erik712m on Fri Sep 26, 2008 9:15 pm, edited 1 time in total.
This is going to end up costing me, I can see it now.
That piece attached to the shaft at the top is the inner race from the bearing mounted in the axle housing, right? What is just below that, a spacer? It looks like there are two pieces on the shaft above the gear itself. My parts manual doesn't look like that.
That piece attached to the shaft at the top is the inner race from the bearing mounted in the axle housing, right? What is just below that, a spacer? It looks like there are two pieces on the shaft above the gear itself. My parts manual doesn't look like that.
1973 712M
Hopefully Dave has his decoder ring on as that is what I called it.That piece attached to the shaft at the top is the inner race from the bearing mounted in the axle housing, right?
it's one piece mine all looked like that.What is just below that, a spacer? It looks like there are two pieces on the shaft above the gear itself
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What a PITA. I finally got it apart. Drove all over town looking for a puller that would work without luck. I finally just drove the wheel flange out the back using a brass drift and BFH.
Found the O-ring kind of by accident. Had a heck of a time pulling the old seal out, but got it out eventually. 60-78-8 size.
Now the million dollar question: Any way I can clean up that gear and re-use it?
What sealant would be best when I start putting this back together?
I know one thing I'll have a decent puller by the time the next one goes.
Found the O-ring kind of by accident. Had a heck of a time pulling the old seal out, but got it out eventually. 60-78-8 size.
Now the million dollar question: Any way I can clean up that gear and re-use it?
What sealant would be best when I start putting this back together?
I know one thing I'll have a decent puller by the time the next one goes.
1973 712M
Ordered a replacement gear (used) from SAV. Not as bad as I thought it was going to be. Old one is going to be a paper weight on my desk reminding me not to be a dumb a**.
Hope it all goes back together ok. Now I have to bleed all the brakes when I get it back together too. I was hoping I only had to do that wheel, but I noticed half the resevoir is empty so I assume that whole circuit needs bled. Times like this I wish I would have gone 710 instead of 712.
Anyone know what to torque the bolts to that hold the backing plate to the axle? I think I'm reading right 30-35 Nm for the three bolts (pictured above) for the flange shaft?
Hope it all goes back together ok. Now I have to bleed all the brakes when I get it back together too. I was hoping I only had to do that wheel, but I noticed half the resevoir is empty so I assume that whole circuit needs bled. Times like this I wish I would have gone 710 instead of 712.
Anyone know what to torque the bolts to that hold the backing plate to the axle? I think I'm reading right 30-35 Nm for the three bolts (pictured above) for the flange shaft?
1973 712M
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There is nothing wrong with re-using that gear. I have found numerous gears with puller damage in that area that were repaired in Europe
While it may throw it out of balance a little, you will never notice it.
Now if the teeth themselves are damaged, then replacement is necessary.
I have been busy lately, or I would have reponded sooner
Mogfest at Calico is just around the corner
While it may throw it out of balance a little, you will never notice it.
Now if the teeth themselves are damaged, then replacement is necessary.
I have been busy lately, or I would have reponded sooner
Mogfest at Calico is just around the corner