G'day, new here, where do you think my oil is leaking?

[Heinkeljb]

The top of the shock is held in place in the same way as the bottom - long piece of studding with a nut on either end, which should be able to be pulled out of the tube in the "T" section which supports the platform. Quite possibly, the stud has seized in the centre and won't want to move. If you have enough room, you could just slide the shock off the end of the stud.

John

[investedenergy]

Yeah cheers

I've actually got the forklift and some chains sorted out to hang the Haffy from it's army slinging points. It's a clear floor hoist that makes the job quite reasonable. My access issue is that the air intake pipe runs hard under the mounting & prevents me getting in there with a pin punch. I might make some progress with vice grips but I'm not confident with what looks like a much firmer fit than a split pin...

I just don't want to damage anything...

[TechMOGogy]

Remove the air intake and carb as a whole
Remove rubber plug (if there)
From that side it is just a split pin and castle nut.
From the side your trying to do it from, as you found, it is the round pin

[Jim LaGuardia]

That is correct, only need to remove nut on engine bay side, stud pushes through(forward)

[investedenergy]

Aaaaaaaand I've found the oil leak issue plus some other carnage!

I'll try to post pictures but most dramatically, the bottom part of the flange on the diff casing, to which the swing arm boot is clipped, has been broken. I suspect this is because there's an oil slinger(?) that's come away from the drive shaft. It's been welded in a few spots to keep it on the shaft, however these welds are broken. Perhaps the previous owner should t have driven so far with a broken suspension check strap.

I'm meant to be going away with the poor haffie on Monday, so for now there's some JB weld curing on the housing. I've been told it's good stuff so I guess we'll see.

My other problem is the CV joint boot I have to fit. At the moment I've got the swivel hub off without breaking the hydraulics open, because I'd prefer not to have to bleed brakes if it can be avoided. However there is a big slinger cum seal surface sleeve that must have to come off before the CV boot can go on... unless I have to disassemble the CV joint itself?

Can someone advise do I try to pull the splined shaft from the CV joint, or can I pull the slinger off the shaft over the splines?

Cheers!

Anthony

[Heinkeljb]

Hi,

In your second to last photo, you have the splined shaft to your left. Then you have the "mud protector" aluminium part, then the rubber CV boot.

You can actually pull that "mud protector" off down the splined section - there is a "O" inside which stops the oil from the drive shaft running down the splines and out into the big bad world - so just remember to replace it when you put the "mud protector" back on the shaft!.

John

[investedenergy]

Thanks very much John,

That's exactly what I wanted to hear. I'll get stuck back into fixing it now...

The collar welded on the shaft will just have to get some more welds I guess. The photo doesn't show the existing 4 tack welds are broken, I'm guessing because it was mobile, it was able to get into trouble with busting the alloy housing...

I panicked when I first saw it because it looked like a bearing race! It might not even go back in there at this rate.

I can't see anything obvious as to why the front diff lock doesn't want to stay engaged. Should there be a spring loaded detent on that? I reckon the weight of the actuating handle would be enough to encourage it to pop out.

Cheers

[Heinkeljb]

First off, make sure the "H" shaped force direction changing systems pivot points all work - they are prone to seizing up.

You can buy the alloy casting which is broken, but I would think it would be cheaper to find someone to weld it up and then re-machine the inside surface.

John

[Garrycol]

With respect to to the broken housing - that area is not load bearing and only forms a a housing for the swing arm boot to seal against. For sure welding it back up would be ideal but that means pulling the lot out and doing a bit of dismantling. As I think you are intending I would grind the broken face to remove any oil and grind around the area to increase bonding area and use a high quality plastic metal.

It should be strong enough to allow the swing arm boot to seal against but I definitely use sealant and ensure the load is spread around the housing.

Re- front diff lock - I had the same issue (as well as the rear) and it is just a matter of adjustment at the diff housing.

Garry