Getting the most from the brake system of the Haflinger.

[cascade.king]

Are there any top tips for getting the most from the Haflinger brake system?

Since there are larger bore brake cylinder choices, I assume that may help.. Anyone else have direct experience with optimizing the safe stopping power of the truck?

I have heard time and again that "it's a good thing they only go 45mph, because stopping is more about engine/trans braking that friction to drum."

[Garrycol]

Mike I actually think the brakes are OK for the vehicle but I do have a lot of experience with drum braked vehicles. My haffie is driven on the road in the city a lot, is a bit quicker than most Haffies and stops very well - nice hard pedal and lots of grip.

I think the trick is to always have the brake to drum clearance as close as possible without binding - this is more than just have the adjusters done up. It means having correctly matched shoes and drums and if the drums are worn down a bit then oversized shoes should be used to match. Deglazing the shoe linings also help.

However a small brake booster and disks on the front would be good.

Garry

[Heinkeljb]

Under "normal" driving, you probably don't need to use the brakes that much if you "read" the road ahead. Engine / Transmission braking is more than adequate!

The brakes with new parts (master cylinder / flexible hoses / hard pipes / wheel cylinders / brake shoes / brake drums) should be capable of stopping a Haflinger within it's driving capabilities.

As pointed out, the drums are all probably quite worn by now, you can check how much of a lip there is. They might also be a bit elliptical - Standing on the brake pedal after having suffered brake fade (Hot brake drums / shoes) can cause the drums to go a little bit soft.

Lurch manages to lock the rear wheels quite happily if you want. The MOT man managed to get the two rear wheels off the ground when he did the brake test as couple of weeks ago.

I think the real test / adjustment issue is getting it to pull up straight!

Looking at the parts book, they did actually provide a dual brake system and a brake booster system. I know of at least one Haflinger with a disk brake conversion up front. (It's a six wheeler)

John

[TechMOGogy]

Put front brake cylinders on the rears.
That is what was done to mine and it stops great (or at least did when it was not in pieces)!
I also read the road ahead for safety but I tested and could lockup the wheels easily.

[pinzmeister-uk]

I'm rebuilding my old Haf and I've fitted a brake booster along with all new wheel cylinders and master cylinder I'll post how effective it is when it's up and running in a few weeks time. It's also got a TR engine so needs to be able to stop!

[Garrycol]

What is a TR engine?

[Heinkeljb]

Gary,

Take a look here: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Puch_500

Basically the TR was larger bore version of the standard Haflinger / Puch 500 flat twin engine. Don't think the bore is as big as your engine though!

John

[Sandy]

Mike,
We may as well mention the brake hoses while we are at it. Over time these hoses will swell internally and restrict braking effectiveness.
It is an easy and relatively cheap fix.
Regards,
Sandy